of where we have been, and where we are hoping to be going. Living only one half hour from the old Chouinard factory, I have vivid memories of the efforts that went into promoting clean climbing. Every time another wall in Yosemite was climbed using chocks and stoppers, they would hold a slide show and talk on their modest retail space. That was long before the invention of spring loaded camming devices. I, for one, wish that we didn't have to leave even chalk marks on the rock. But I have seen that all the chalk marks are erased from long routes in Yosemite after a winter season. On the backcountry routes chances of seeing chalk marks are extremely rare. On the subject of rock and ice climbing, it is said that "a rock climber is like a dancer, whereas an ice climber operates like a mechanic." Just thoughts!
Thank you for your new and interesting perspective,
Marc
It is good to see such a young man with such an in-depth capability of thinking about climbing and why we climb. I have gone through your two 'essays' and I suggest that you take up the following as your third 'essay' which would complete the first two nicely: 'ethics in climbing'.
You seem to already know the high ethics which was the norm on the UK crags in the 50's and still today. Continental Europe then and up to the end of the 70's was all about 'pegging' in order to do new routes but with some exceptions. I give you one: the Belgian climber Claudio Barbier, famous for his 1rst ascents and solo climbs in the Dolomites (of which the 5 North faces of the Cime di Lavaredo in one day - 13h with the descent - 1750m of grade V and VI) who in 1963 painted in yellow the pegs on his favorite Belgian crag which were not to be used for progression but solely for protection. It was a start towards clean climbing. But even if you base your argument on what went on in your country, you will find all which is required, as ethics in climbing is a subject shared by all climbers worldwide. I am sure that you will do well with this additional subject.
jdenyes - Sep 22, 2012 8:42 am - Hasn't voted
Interestingreally interesting perspective on our impact in the wilderness, thanks for sharing
Marcsoltan - Sep 22, 2012 2:39 pm - Voted 10/10
Brings back memories...of where we have been, and where we are hoping to be going. Living only one half hour from the old Chouinard factory, I have vivid memories of the efforts that went into promoting clean climbing. Every time another wall in Yosemite was climbed using chocks and stoppers, they would hold a slide show and talk on their modest retail space. That was long before the invention of spring loaded camming devices. I, for one, wish that we didn't have to leave even chalk marks on the rock. But I have seen that all the chalk marks are erased from long routes in Yosemite after a winter season. On the backcountry routes chances of seeing chalk marks are extremely rare. On the subject of rock and ice climbing, it is said that "a rock climber is like a dancer, whereas an ice climber operates like a mechanic." Just thoughts!
Thank you for your new and interesting perspective,
Marc
ericvola - Nov 11, 2012 1:24 pm - Voted 10/10
EthicsIt is good to see such a young man with such an in-depth capability of thinking about climbing and why we climb. I have gone through your two 'essays' and I suggest that you take up the following as your third 'essay' which would complete the first two nicely: 'ethics in climbing'.
You seem to already know the high ethics which was the norm on the UK crags in the 50's and still today. Continental Europe then and up to the end of the 70's was all about 'pegging' in order to do new routes but with some exceptions. I give you one: the Belgian climber Claudio Barbier, famous for his 1rst ascents and solo climbs in the Dolomites (of which the 5 North faces of the Cime di Lavaredo in one day - 13h with the descent - 1750m of grade V and VI) who in 1963 painted in yellow the pegs on his favorite Belgian crag which were not to be used for progression but solely for protection. It was a start towards clean climbing. But even if you base your argument on what went on in your country, you will find all which is required, as ethics in climbing is a subject shared by all climbers worldwide. I am sure that you will do well with this additional subject.
Best