Came here for the first time as part of the Basic Climbing Course.
Climbed a couple routes with Gimpilator before the heat and the 5.9+(++) Celestial Groove shut us down. Rock quality-wise this is the best area in Leavenworth that i have been to.
8 mile- Classic Crack (5.8), Deception crack (5.9)
Clamshell-Clamshell Crack (5.7)
Bruces Boulder-Lots of stuff, from 5.6 slab routes to face climbs to an easy corner crack
Barney's Rubble- A 5.6, can't remember if it has a name
Lots of bouldering all over the place. Best stuff seemed to be at the beach area in the Tumwater canyon, swiftwater, and Barney's Rubble. Muscle Beach, near Barney's, is an AWESOME swimming hole in late summer.
Great day with Sandeep on good route. started to rain, rope snag on rap- all the good things in life to keep it real. dried off enough to play on slabs routes mid descent.
My favorite place to climb in the State, beautiful scenery, good weather, and great routes
Love Leavenworth. We go as much as we can. Skiing, biking, boating, climbing......what to do today?
I'm just a little too used to Yosemite though it seems.
lots of great stuff!
Spent a few days in leavenworth getting to know routes/areas, really great climbs and concentration..more bolted routes than expected. Curious how this place looks during ice season, until 2009!
Climbed here as part of my 13-day mountaineering trip with alpine ascents.
We climbed Roto Wall and Classic Crack they were great climbs to work on yor jamming also climbed Angle Crack 5.10 tough crack
Partners: John Middleton, Joe Hahler, Ruth Martin.
The first time I ever climbed in my life was here: Bruce's Boulder & Barney's Rubble. Done in brand-new mountain boots in the cold & rain. What a rush! The rest is history. I've returned many, many times since.
Leavenworth is close to home, so I've been there many times. Great camping down Icicle Road. I've climbed all around Icicle Canyon, Castle Rock, and Tumwater Canyon. There's still so much to climb there, I'll be back!
I went to Icicle Creek with Linda N and one of her friends. I sent up topropes on Bruce's Boulder and Barney's Rubble so they could climb. A fun day! Next time I visit Linda (soon - I hope), I will make time to go there and climb.
Gun Rack - 5.9 - A fun 2 pitch route with a pumpy roof on the first pitch, but overall not that memorable. Not deserving of its 3 stars.
Playin' Possum - 5.10b - Cool 3 pitch route. Pitch 1 is fun and 2 is easy but 3 is really sweet. I'd give it 2 or 3 stars not 1.
Seven Seas - 5.7 - Really cool pitch with a fun handcrack at the top.
Agent Orange - 5.8 - Decent route with only 1 5.8 move near the top.
Red Tide - 5.10a - Followed Brian, stout for the grade. Really good pitch.
Heart Of Gold (5/14/06) - Fun 4 pitch 5.10A slab route on Duty Dome. Climbed it with Radek, Shirley, and Haydar. Pitches 1, 3, and 4 were very nice.
Off duty - 5.10a - Overated and overgraded, more like a 1 or 2 star 5.9.
Domestic Dome (5/21/05) - B.S. to Snag Crack - Cool climb, but heavily sandbagged. The first pitch is 5.8 slab, not 5.6. The slab below Snag crack is also 5.8. Getting into Snag Crack is 5.8, and above that is sweet handjambing goodness. Nice route.
Condorphamine Addiction (4/9/05) - Nice climb, see my trip report.
Purina Crags Area
Poison Ivy Crack - 5.9 - 6X - Great fingers to thin hands in left facing corner. The stem move at the top is fun. Very nice pitch. 2X leading, 2X following, 2X TRing.
Just Another Sucker on the Vine - 5.8 - Lead it 2X, very nice for a 5.8 pitch, more like 2 or 3 stars.
La Cucaracha - 5.10D - 2X - Hard steep off fingers to thin hands. A sweet splitter.
Pearly Gates Area
No Room For Squares - 5.8 - Fun handcrack.
Lost Souls - 5.9 - 2X - Good handcrack, the bulge is the crux.
Last Rights - 5.10A - The right angling handcrack, not bad. Easy for a 5.10A.
Loaves of Fun - 5.8 - 2X - Really nice double crack exiting up unto the slab above. Sustained. Recommended.
Milky Way - 5.10A - Amazing 2 pitch 5.10A slab! The best slab route I've been on in Leavenworth.
Tool Time - 5.9+ - Fun slab, the crux is probably mid 10, gotta love those stiff ratings!
New 5.9 slab right of the second pitch of Milky Way - Fun climb with some cool flakes.
Cloud Nine - 5.9+ - Nice 2 pitch climb. The crux on the second pitch is pretty hard.
Easy Pickens - 5.10A - The start is really hard, above that is some nice finger jambs and a cool sidepull move at the end. Good route.
Z Crack - 5.10C - 2X TRing, freed the entry move the second time. Nice pitch.
Dogleg Crack - 5.8+ - 5X leading and TRing - Nice right leaning thin handcrack. Very good route.
Meatgrinder - 5.10A - 2X leading, 1X TRing. Had to hang at the overhanging #3 camalot section near the top all 3 times. Fun climb.
Hind Quarters - 5.10A - OK slab route right of Dogleg Crack, wouldn't do it again.
Givler's Crack - II 5.8 - 2X - Classic, a must do.
Icicle Creek Buttress
R&D - II 5.7 - Nice easy route. The last pitch is good. 3X leading, 1X freesolo.
Cocaine Crack - 5.10A - 3X - Incredible finger crack! Highly Recommended. 1 each following, TRing, and leading.
Spaghetti Sauce - 5.8 - Really nice pitch, good varied climbing. Starts out with a slab, then a clean lieback flake, then a crack. Fun!
Another Roadside Attraction - II 5.9 - Fun 3 pitch 5.9 slab climb, all three pitches are easy 5.9. Pretty good.
Third Crack - Fun offwidth dihedral, felt more like 5.7.
Fourth Crack - Nice fingercrack / flake. Felt like 5.8.
Fifth Crack, easy exit - 5.8 - Fun dihedral fingercrack with a juggy steep exit.
Fifth Crack, hard exit - 5.10C - Overhanging technical stemming and tips liebacking. Fun stuff.
8 Mile Rock
Classic Crack - 5.8+ - Great handcrack! Felt hard for an 8+ the first time I did it, now it feels like 5.6. (4X)
Twin Cracks - 5.8 - Ok route, it is climbed by people waiting for the above.
5.6 flake - Fun liebacking and jambing.
5.8 handcrack - Nice handjambing to OW.
5.9 Corner Slab - Really short, ok route.
5.10C Flared Crack next to it - Bad climb, you have to use double gaston technique on the nasty flaring crack. Not recommended.
Yard Art - II 5.9 - Pitches 1 through 3 are nice, but 4 sucks.
Camarillo Brillo - 5.9 - The start is good with a steep handcrack but the top has nasty flaring gritty cracks.
Lawn Darts - 5.10A - Beautiful slab / face!
West Face of Peak-a-Boo Tower - 5.9 - Beautiful pitch with a hard offwidth and steep juggy face. A nice summit.
I've bouldered about 20 problems on several trips. Royal Flush is a must do. Several of the roof offwidth crack problems are very good as well.
Ski Tracks Crack - 5.9 - Really nice angling fingercrack, lead by Dan.
Keen Acres - 5.9+ - OK fingercrack / slab, easy for the grade.
Snakes - 5.9 - Dirty, crappy route. Way overgraded.
Gibson's Crack - A couple times. Fun easy handcrack, more like 5.7 than 5.5.
The Flame - II 5.9 - Bruce and I climbed this nice 4 pitch line on Midnight Rock in September of 07. Really enjoyed pitches 2, 3, and the first half of 4. Pitch #2 seams stout, harder than any 10a at Vantage. Fun times.
My partners were Laurie Fink, Larry Weis and Bill Lingley.
These were great routes, I climbed with Larry Weis, Bill Lingley and Laurie Fink. I also attempted Board Walk with Mack Weigilt and Jay Osseander in the Winter.
June 24-25, 2006
Met up with the Denyers and Chris & Shauna and did some climbing in the sweltering heat.
Canary (5.9) Classic on Castle Rock, the first pitch was hard to get around the roof to Saber ledge with little pro.
Damnation Crack (5.9) The start was wide to get a good jam, the top part is mainly a wide chimney, use little crack on the faces, kind of scary.
Saints (5.8+) Did the first pitch to top rope Angel Crack. The crack is thin fingers for me, sweating in the heat made it also harder.
Angel Crack (5.10b) Polished, can't get any foot, fingers were not very secure either
Next day went to Clem's Holler area
Playin Possum (5.8) Did the first pitch, look for the hidden hold before the third bolt.
Nettlesome (5.9) Slab with one slippery section
Honky's Lament (5.8) Only trad in the area, nice flake, dirty start.
Gun Rack (5.9) Well protected fun roof move if you get a good finger lock in the left cracks. My feet were boiling from heat on the second pitch...
May 13-14, 2006
Met up with bunch friends celebrate Martin's birthday and do some climbing together. Good times!
Dogleg Crack (5.8+) Slippery crux but otherwise nice route
Meat Grinder (5.10a) Tough, overhanging, good hand jams higher up, use the #3 camalot.
Z-Crack (5.10c) TRed, hard to get of the ground
Classic Crack (5.9) Sweet hand crack, too short
Heart Of Gold (5.10a) 4P mostly slab/face climbing on Duty Dome, fun route. Climbed as two twosome with Radek/Shirley and Martin. The 10a slab was sustained all the way.
Poison Ivy Crack (5.9) Fun little corner crack and a stem move out and left of the roof.
July 9, 2005
Took a gamble to avoid the bad weather everywhere else and it could not be better. Leavenworth is always fun, climbed with Jim the following:
Givler's Crack (2P, 5.8) Very nice route, wish was longer
Rare Earth (5.10a) Friction, no holds whatsoever
Fit 'N Trim (2P, 5.8+) Didn't feel like 5.8.
An unknown crack between Givler's Dome and Mastadon Roof was hard, had to aid it as my left shoe's toe box came apart ...
Feeling good and strong so are we off to Orbit on Snow Creek Wall on Sunday.
Fun weekend of Leavenworth climbing to escape the rainy (in July???) Northwest forecast.
Givler's Crack (2P, 5.8): Great route, but too short!
Rare Earth (5.10a): Friction (the F word) is not my thing ...
Fit 'N Trim (2P, 5.8+): Definitely easier than 5.8.
Something in between Givler's Dome and Mastadon Roof. Slightly overhanging crack. Can't find it in any book ... felt like 5.9?
Orbit on Snow Creek Wall