Lenin Traverse, Yukhin Peak - Lipkin Rocks

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Kyrgyzstan, Asia
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Lenin Traverse, Yukhin Peak - Lipkin Rocks
Created On: Aug 1, 2017
Last Edited On: Sep 17, 2017


This route was rather done than planned.
Because 2 mountaineers partners left, they joined to a new team and climbed Yukhin Peak just for acclimatisation. There they switched plans, got more supplies from Camp1 and started the traverse...
I'm sure all parts of this route have been climbed before, except the couloir SW of the Lipkin rocks until it joins the Arkin route. Be careful about avalanches in the couloir.
But maybe this traverse was done the first time in this combination.
We had very soft snow which slowed down our progress and we were not acclimatised so we used more camps then would be really necessary.
It's easy to find good spots for setting up a tent. This route might be an interesting and less dangerous ascent alternative to the normal route for experienced mountaineers.
Summit day: 2017-07-25
Climbers: Markus Gschwendt (AT), Anton Sharobayko (RU)

Getting There

Starting at Camp 1 (ABC, 4400m) of the normal route. Its easy to reach this camp and there are lots of descriptions around. Just follow the paths of the 'babysitter groups'.

Route Description

From Camp 1 climb easily Yukhin Peak as many parties do for acclimatisation. Some hours.
Follow the often steep and narrow ridge over 30th anniversary of Uzbek Republic Peak (5700m) to Razdelnaya Peak (6150m) and down to Camp 3 (of normal route, 6100m). Several days.
Summit Pik Lenin. Setting up Camp 4 is a good option for traversing and to get away from the crowds.
Traverse on the east side of the NE ridge down until the Lipkin rocks. Sometimes steep down and over hidden crevasses.
Downclimb the couloir SW of the Lipkin rocks to join the Arkin route and the normal route back to Camp 1.

Essential Gear

Camping gear and food for 7 to 10 days (depends on snow conditions and acclimatisation).
Rope, helmet, ice screws, ice axe, grampons, maybe snow stakes.

External Links

Website of Markus Gschwendt