Link + Holy Grail

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.7

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Jun 9, 2003
Last Edited On: Jun 9, 2003

Approach


Follow faint trail beside west face of Moro Rock. Start at rest room and trend right through a sawn tree. Keep descending, following very faint trail until you reach an easy downwards sloping ramp that leads left back towards the west face. There is a pine tree with raps slings for descent to lower climbs of the West Face.

Route Description


An excellent into to Moro Rock, combining 2 routes. This route is also out of the direct line of fire from dropped/thrown tourist trash.

The fist pitch of the Link is required to get you to the start of Holy Grail. Start below the small "M" shaped roof. Mantle up (a little run out) to get gear in a flake below the roof. Use a long runner to allow you to lieback around the right side of the roof. Easy liebacking brings you to the 3rd class ledge. Belay from here.

Move the belay right, halfway along the ledge. A medium sized flake, resting on the ledge besides a vegetated crack marks the start of Holy Grail.

Pitches 1&2: Discontinuous 5.6 corners and cracks, seperated by ledges and 4th class lead to a belay at a large ledge with a large, mature pine tree.

Pitch 3: left sloping corner/ramp leads to a right facing corner that is liebacked. This is probably the crux of the route with 1 or 2 5.7 moves. The angle of the corner rapidly decrease, giving way to easy 5th slab moves - with the railing of the saddle now in sight. A 2 bolt belay is located about 100ft below the saddle.

Pitch 4: 3rd class slab climbing leads back to tourist route.

Essential Gear


1 set of nuts and 1 set of cams (Blue to Red Aliens; 0.75 to 3.5 BD camalots). An extra #.75 and #1 BD cam is useful.

Some medium and long slings for runners - route/pro is not in a direct line.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.