Little Bear Peak solo

Page Type
Trip Report
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Sep 21, 2015
Activities:
Mountaineering, Scrambling
Season:
Fall
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Created On: Sep 22, 2015
Last Edited On: Sep 22, 2015

Little Bear Peak solo

After bailing on climbing Mt Belford and Mt Oxford due to not feeling it the weekend before. I came back strong yesterday. I finally attempted Little Bear Peak. I've never backpacked into a location to climb the next day before. I also haven't gotten this much mileage in over a year and over 6,000ft elevation gain. I loaded my bag and left a little later then I planned. I got to the 2wd area just before seven. The sun was starting to set and it was beautiful. I left my car 6:50 and started my 6 mile adventure up the infamous lake como rd. About 8pm I met another climber named Eric and he was planning the traverse. He was super nice and I hung out for twenty mins. Then went on my way. I finally made it up to Lake Como at midnight. I set up camp fast. I haven't carried that much weight ever. I really need a therma rest pad. I don't know much sleep I got but I planned for 5:30 to wake. I got lazy and cold and passed out till 6:30. I wasn't to worried since monsoon season is over. I still like getting up early since I've been slow. I got my stuff ready and headed out at 7am. I didn't read to much into the first gully and it sucked. Instead of going straight up and then staying right I stayed to the left or the east side the whole time. The rock and was crappy and loose. I scrambled up a long the rock on the left to try avoid it. It ended up taking a long time. When I got to the top I ended up down the other side and traversed lower down. When the south west face finally came into view it was beautiful. Eric ended up passing me swiftly a few hundred feet of the hourglass. He was crushing it and beside the one minute I was solo. I took a break at the bottom of the hourglass at 9:49. The fun was about to begin. It started at class 3 and I rushed up the the tightest part. That's where the class 4 started. Luckily it was only a little wet and I climbed my way up to the rappel station. Instead of climbing to the right and up toward the second rappel station I scrambled left and up. I guess I ended up in a wrong gully or something but it stayed consistent with class 3 and up the whole time. I ended up getting to the top of part of the ridge and crumbled traverse back east. I did at least exposed class 5 move as I went u and traversed around. It was probably way more fun then the standard final 300ft. I finally summited at 11 and stayed up there till 11:30 and i had the summit to myself. I knew I wasn't in the best shape and slow and decided to wait till next year for the great traverse. I found the proper way down and it wasn't to bad. I had my hand lightly around the good green rope as I did a controlled butt slide down the class 4 just in case but I never tugged on it. Instead of staying low along the ridge I stayed up at the top of it. I got back to the gully around 1:30 and rested. I looked up and I saw my first 22degree halo around the sun. I thought it was just my glasses and I took a picture. It ended up showing beautifully in the iPhone picture that I noticed way later that night. Luckily I had cell phone reception and looked up the easier way on the gully and followed it. I saw Eric walking by on the trail to blanca as I went down so idk what way he went down. Less then halfway I heard rockfall and a large rock came down the gully on the east side. I got back to my tent at 2:45. I ended up running out of water except a 16oz bottle that I used very sparingly the last 6 miles. I tried to rest for an hour and passed the lake at 4pm and finished at 7pm. I got to spend exactly 24hrs day. Awesome climb. Awesome tiring day. Glad I got lost to add more scrambling. I haven't done this much mileage in over a year and not sure if I've gotten over 6,000ft elevation gain before. I am sore and tired today.

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