After summiting Ellingwood and Blanca the day before, Ben L and I ascended the Hourglass route on Little Bear Pk in thinning snow conditions with a bit of ice peeking out. Exciting and rewarding summit!
We summited! 2 hour driving "boot delay," flat tire on the hwy delay, vehicle road-blocking on Como-lake road delay and cause for extra hiking with camping gear in hand... but we made it! Climbing this is in snow (very avy prone so be careful about conditions) is totally the way to do it to avoid rockfall danger! We EARNED this summit!!!
Perfect snow conditions in the hourglass as I summitted with Hokiejim and ktiffany22. We camped at 10.2K at the sites along Como Lake Rd and bushwacked all the way up the west ridge to meet the standard route. Slope angle was meaured at 40-45 degrees below/to the rap anchors and there was a very short 50 degree slope just below the summit. Climbing on stable snow is the way to do Little Bear!
I really liked this mountain and didn't think the hourglass was too bad, but a marmot did eat my hat at the base of it.
9/17/05 - Climbed the hourglass route from camp at Lake Como.
6/10/06 - One day blitz of the Lake Como Trio. Climbed the NW Face of Little Bear, did the classic traverse to Blanca, stayed on the ridge to Ellingwood, and descended Ellingwood's SW ridge.
2/28/09 - Climbed the NW Face (protected everything from the black hand, up). Descended the standard Hourglass route. 18 hrs car to car. NW Face = cold in winter
This was my second climb of Little Bear. We did the standard hourglass route. We were hurried by lightning on the return.
This was my first climb of Little Bear. We did the stardard West Ridge route through the Hourglass from Como Lake.
From camp at Lake Como, climbed the West Ridge of Little Bear, performed the traverse to Blanca Peak, then descended Blanca's Northwest Face to Ellingwood Point's South Face with my friend Keith. The hourglass wasn't too bad. I never touched the ropes, but I also have a rock climbing background. We saw a little bear while hiking up the jeep road to Lake Como. Kind of ironic.
Climbed Blanca traversed to LB and then reversed the LB-Blanca traverse to descend since I wasn't sure what the standard route up LB is. Don't recommend doing the same.
Hourglass to LB/Blanca Traverse to Blanca/Ellingwood Ridge to Ellingwood SW Ridge. The 'Hourglass' was not as bad as I expected; however, it was dry and we were alone on the peak. We dislodged a few rocks and these puppies sure were missiles heading down the gully. As for the fixed lines, double check the mess of anchors...quite a bit of the webbing (and ropes for that matter) looked sketch, to say the least!
did it midweek... I got chased down last year by hail and lightning. This year I didnt have that problem at all. No one else on the route while I was there that day. The hourglass was not as bad as it hyped to be in my opinion. I think that I had played it up in my mind some. Lots of loose rock. no question.
Glad to have climbed this mountain - great character building. Hourglass was of course very wet - climbed up to the left of the worst of it. Used a rope we brought to rap down. One person in our party was hit on the helmet with a rock - it's a pretty scary thing to see! She was ok.
Seven AM on top via the hourglass from Lake Como. I like getting up early - particularly for a humdinger of a mountain like this one. Wow.
Climbed the NW Face route with Jamie Nellis. Started to rain a little just below the summit. It was short lived, but we unfortunately had to descend the hourglass with wet rock. I don't know what its like dry, but wet the hourglass was scary!
Started at 0400 at the big parking lot just off hwy 150 (8000ft). 0930 I made Lake Como. Approx. 1215, I made it to the "Hourglass Couloir." By 1300, I was on the top. 1345 to 1500 got hailed and rained on, and by 1900 I was back to the car. The "fixed lines" were pretty manky (one had a ten foot section of missing sheath), and both had been cut out and retied, but they held me on descent. It's probably safer to do as a spring snow climb. Glad to have been solo up in the "bowling alley". Outstanding time!
We went up and camped in one of the huts at Lake Como on the 21st and woke up and headed up the first couloir up to the ridge around 4:45AM. On top of the ridge we had some fantastic views of the alpenglow consuming the valley as the sun rose.
The hourglass was in fairly good shape, although there were a couple spots where the snow was so hard that we were simply frontpointing it with our crampons as if we were climbing a waterfall in Ouray or something. Anyways, this is perhaps my favorite 14'er to date as both the climb and the views from the top were absolutely breathtaking.
Great snow climb of the Hourglass. Great weather and a great summit!
Awesome weather and spectacular snow climb. Mostly snow in the hourglass all the way to the summit. Some tricky downclimbing, but a great glissade back to the lake.
Yep, a long, endless talus route - considering the tread wear on my Asolos, I left about $40 dollars of boot on the ridge. However, I didn't have to dodge any rocks or yell a single embarrassing "ROCK!" from rocks I kicked loose. The traverse from South Little Bear to Little Bear took almost 2 hours - lots of route finding. But the return trip took just under 20 minutes (we knew the way by then). Use a GPS with trackback turned on for the bushwhacking!
Fantastic climb - my first Class 4 peak......and I loved it! We started hiking the Lake Como road at 2:00am, reached the lake by 6:00am, and summitted around 9am. We were fortunate to be the first up the hourglass that day, which lessened the risk of rockfall. We only saw 3 other people on the mountain that day (with very good weather too!)