Lyskamm Climber's Log

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jasonconnell

jasonconnell - Nov 24, 2007 9:54 pm

West  Sucess!

Awesome day turned ugly. Left Sella, climbed Lyskamn West and continued on to the Gnifetti hut in deep slush. very hot day and poor planning on our part.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1130/1123092355_99c1e3cc02_b.jpg

mulidivarese

mulidivarese - Aug 20, 2007 1:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007

Lyskamm east: the 30th  Sucess!

and then it was the time for the Lyskamm east
Planned for so many years.....
The weather during the last ten days of this 2007 august was very unstable. The forecast just gave us a chanche of clear weather for about 12 hours between saturday and sunday. We left Gnifetti hut at 5:10. At 8:10 we reached the summit by the east-ridge. At 10 we were back to Gnifetti just before the weather turned very bad. At 9 the lyskamm was already totally kept by clouds.
Wonderfull, knife edged, aesthetic ridge. A step into the sky.
and it was mine 30th fourthausant summit of alp.

Valerio e Marco

becquerel

becquerel - Aug 19, 2007 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007

East ridge to east peak ....

Wonderful ridge ! But it was too windy and cloudy that day, so we had to give up. Doesn't matter .... I am looking forward to next attempt :-)

Bor

Bor - Jul 22, 2007 1:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

Route climbed: West approach from Quintino Sella hut

We tried to reach the west summit from Quintino Sella hut but we were not on the top because of the too strong wind and because of blisters. :)

Griffiths

Griffiths - Jun 5, 2007 7:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005

West-East Traverse  Sucess!

Absolutely perfect weather, wonderful day of climbing

Britette

Britette - May 25, 2007 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996

E to W Traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the SW arete from Felikjoch and Castor. Traversed E to W and descended the E arete. The sun was rising as we reached the W summit. Incredibly beautiful. Traversing in the dark was good because I couldn't see how far the drop was. Exposure was huge as we weaved our way along the cornice.

erik_ravenstijn

erik_ravenstijn - Oct 7, 2006 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

One of my biggest dreams  Sucess!

This was a dream come true: traversing one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps: the Lyskamm ridge. Tears almost start rolling when writing this. You can check some photos at: www.climbingtours.net.

p-mike

p-mike - Mar 15, 2006 11:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1996

West Lyskamm from Q.Sella  Sucess!

My first 4000er..wonderful!!

hansw

hansw - Mar 10, 2006 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2000

From Felickjoch to Lyskamm W  Sucess!

"The only problem will be the wind", said Freddy when we started from the hut with the intention to traverse the Liskamm from west to east. And he was right. The wind was so hard that we almost couldn't move on the summit ridge. There was nothing to do but to turn back at the west summit. Exciting tour. (July 26, 2000).

connect

connect - Jan 23, 2006 5:21 am

Route Climbed: E ridge Date Climbed: july 1994  Sucess!

leaving from the queue ascending towards Margherita refuge was a great relief...

The route is not particularly difficult but we encountered a lot of massif cornices. During the descent the weather changed and find the right way was difficult (due to the cornices, undistinguishable from the sky).

mass

bbirtle

bbirtle - Aug 15, 2005 8:05 am

Route Climbed: Klucker-Neruda NE Face Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005  Sucess!

Took us 11 hours in an epic struggle due to horrible ice conditions and powder-covered rock conditions. 19.5 hours from our bivy site above Monte Rosa Hut to the summit and back! AWESOME!

brade

brade - Aug 8, 2005 1:59 pm

Route Climbed: Normal from Balmenhorn Date Climbed: 29 July 2005  Sucess!

Solo. After the night at Balmenhorn and Piramide Vincent in the morning i did it solo. Airy ridge was difficult for me because of strong wind. No visibility during descent (strong sun and fog made me blind despite sunglasses). Descen to the Monte Rosa Htt.

mulidivarese

mulidivarese - Jul 28, 2005 3:56 am

Route Climbed: Normal from Felickjoch to Lyskamm W Date Climbed: 25th July 2005

Very bad weather.
Stormy, foggy and windy.
Ice all around.
Easy, but with this condiction too dangerous
Valerio and Daniele

ColoradoSonya

ColoradoSonya - Sep 17, 2004 12:57 am

Route Climbed: traverse west-east Date Climbed: June 30 2004  Sucess!

climbed with howie and klaus. lots of fun!

hhsilleck

hhsilleck - Sep 13, 2004 5:16 pm

Route Climbed: traverse west - east Date Climbed: June 30 2004  Sucess!

Scary exposure on both sides of the ridge, but the climbing was fun and enjoyable! The initial section downclimbing off the west summit was a rush. Climbed with my fiancee Sonya and our guide Klaus Tsherrig (who was great - fun, friendly, and highly skilled) - a highlight of our six week "engagement-moon".

flearreta

flearreta - Sep 8, 2004 1:15 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse West-East Date Climbed: August 29, 2004  Sucess!

A long day starting in the Quintino Sella hut at 6AM and ending atop the Marguerita Hut in the summit of Signalkuppe at 3PM. Took us 2 hours from Sella hut to Felikjoch and then an addtional 3 hours to complete the whole Lyskamm traverse up to the Lisjoch. From there, 1 hour to the summit of Ludwighohe, another hour to the summit of Parrotspitze and additional 1.5 hour to the top of Signalkuppe. Then a good night sleep at 4560 meters in the Marguerita hut ;).

andrea.it

andrea.it - May 12, 2004 9:56 am

Route Climbed: west Lyskamm from Q.Sella Date Climbed: august 2002  Sucess!

Climbed twice in two days,waiting for good weather.No ways....

andrea.it

andrea.it - May 10, 2004 1:45 pm

Route Climbed: traverse from west to east Date Climbed: july 2003  Sucess!

Solo traverse,no partners.Beautiful day,no wind no clouds.I think easyer than many people supposed.Just a secure footstep is required.May be from east to west is better than what i did.

fabrizior

fabrizior - Oct 1, 2003 4:43 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from W to E Date Climbed: August 1968  Sucess!

Very impressive and long traverse: the horizontal snowy/icy ridge is very sharp, smaller than mountaineering boot, it's only question of equilibrium, you have nothing to hold...difficult belay.

Samuli Mansikka

Samuli Mansikka - Aug 31, 2003 1:57 pm

Route Climbed: South west ridge Date Climbed: 13th august 2003  Sucess!

Earlier in the morning we climbed the Castor and decided to attempt the Lyskamm with the same effort.

A huge mountain compared to the twins and the route offerede some fine walking on top of the knife-sharp ridge.

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