A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.
Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.
kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.
This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.
The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.
Mallora is the biggest of the islands of the Islas Baleares, it's smaller sisters are Menorca and Ibiza. Both of them are offering good climbing possibilities too. Beside those three main islands there are other, smaller islands (Formentera, ...) part of the Islas Baleares. The capital of Mallorca is Palma de Mallorca and is situated at the SW coast. Palma de Mallorca has an international airport and is the center of the package holidays (especially the "El Arenal" area south of Palma de Mallorca). At the SE-coast and the NE-coast (around Alcudia) are many holiday appartments, visited by many families. In summer this are VERY crowded areas.
The highest point of Mallorca is the Puig Major (1445 m) at the northern part of Mallorca near the town of Soller. At the top of this mountain are some military installations. So the summit is closed. The highest reachable mountain is Massanella with 1.352 m.
The climbing areas are concentrated at the northern part of Mallorca in or near by the mountain range building up this beautiful part of the island. In the southern part are also some interesting seeside areas, especially the very popular crags of "Tijuana" and "Cala Magraner" can be found at the south coast.
Note: it's a good idea to avoid the hairpin-roads in the mountains if you want to go fastly to the crags. But it's a very good idea to use them if you want to have a scenic trip (very recommended).
Avoid the summer: In summer it is too hot for climbing and there are LOTS of people. Enjoy other climbing areas in Europe then.
There are three camping sites available in Mallorca. Camping outside of the authorized area is prohibited (remember the access problems, respect this prohibition). Here is a list of them:
Sun Club Picafort
Open all year
1a-C, Ca'n Picafort
Tel: 971 86 00 02
Fax: 971 71 78 96
Club San Pedro
Open from may 15th
to September 15th
1a-C, Colonia Sant Pere
Tel: 971 58 90 23
Office: 971 73 03 65
Fax: 971 73 04 48
Tel: 971 87 15 25
Mallorcas climbing areas are on limestone but Mallorca is famous for one special kind of climbing: tufas ! There are a lot of them, especially at the more difficult cliffs. Beside the tufas there are steep walls witch technical moves, overhangs, some slabs and a lot of undeveloped possibilities. All modern sport climbs of Mallorca are fully bolted with some excepts: the long, classical routes at Sa Gubbia need a small rack. Some bolts are somewhat rusty, especially at the sea cliffs. So take caution to that bolts. The local climbers are rebolting the routes actually (2003). To list all routes of Mallorca would exceed this page. Instead of this take a look at the following, brief overview of the crags of Mallorcas main crags (number of routes taken from the 2001-Rock Fax guide book):
- Andratx, 16 routes, best grades 6b to 7c, a small, new sector with massive potential for the future.
- Santa Ponca, 7 routes, 7a and higher, a very small crag
- S'Estret, 26 routes, best grades 4 to 5+ or 6b+ to 8a, three different sections
- Valldemossa, 46 routes, best grades 5 to 7b, very popular area wit very easy access (streetside)
- Sa Gubia, 93 routes, grades 3+ to 8a, the biggest area of Mallorca, routes for everyone, length between 30 and 200 m
- Fraguel, 51 routes, best grades 5 to 8b, THE place for the hardmovers but also some very good easy climbs
- Port Sollér, 25 routes, best grades 6a to 8a, beautiful landscape but somewhat rusty and only few routes
- C'an Nyic, 11 routes, best grades 6a+ to 8a+, beautiful situated area at the mountains, few but good routes
- Es Queixal, 13 routes, best grades 5 to 7a+, a long, tricky approach brings one to some very good climbs
- Alaro, 45 routes, best grades 6a to 7c, an unbelievable rock, very dramatic setting. Bad to say, that there are some access problems with the land owners.
- Las Prexes, 27 routes, best grades 7b to 8b+, two sections: one with hard (good !) and one with easy (not so good) routes
- Creveta, 37 routes, best grades 4 to 7a, One of the best crags of the island. There are no "real" hard climbs but for the mid grades a very good area.
- S'on Xanquete, 14 routes, best grades 7a to 8a, few, great routes of the steeper kind
- Betlem, 20 routes, actually grades 5 to 7b+, Good mid grade climbs
- Cala Magraner, 58 routes, grades 5 to 8a+, area by the sea with many routes, sometimes old gear
- Tijuana, 35 routes, grades 4+ to 8a, superb sea cliff, very good, some old bolts
- At (below) the sector S'Estret there is a very good bolder area.
- Most times a single 60m rope will be fine, but 70 m might be a little more comfortable.
- At Sa Gubbia the long, classical routes "Albahida", "La ley del deseo" and others need a 50 m twin rope if one want to abseil down.
- Take care about the qualitiy of the bolts. Stay away from those rusty old plunder at some of the seeside cliffs.
When you are at the Mallorca climbing areas nearly everyone has the RockFax climbing guidebook. It intends all necessary informations, pictures and routes.
Firestone: Mapa turistico "Palma de Mallorca" T-26 or others