Matterhorn, Hörnligrat First light, E. Face

First light on the East Face of the Matterhorn - Hörnligrat Route.

Photo taken 19 August 1985 by Fred Spicker.

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Diggler

Diggler - Feb 6, 2004 5:36 pm - Voted 10/10

looks fun!

How does the rest of the route compare to that? What is the route in YDS? What kind of pro' does one use? Sorry for the profuse Qs, but this mtn is big on my list. Nice shot- looks like a cool climb!

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Feb 6, 2004 6:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

I will be adding more photos of the route in the next day or so.



Most of the route is UIAA II with two pitches of III-. II+ and III- are on the boundary of YDS 4th & 5th class. I would call II classic 4th class and III- 5.0 to 5.2. One normally finds fixed protection on pitches of II+ and above. Much of the route has "if you fall, you die" exposure.



Moni and I climbed up to the first Moseley slab (the first III- pitch) unroped. We roped there and remained roped to the summit and all the way down. We rappelled the fixed ropes and the Moseley Slabs and did short belays where needed. We are not especially fast and were 13 hours round trip from the hut.



There were fixed pitons on the Moseley slabs. We always belay in fixed ropes using the rope anchors as intermediate points and anchors at belay points. We carry webbing for attachment. On most of the major routes in areas where pitons would be buried by varying snow depth, the guides have put in metal posts (rebar) about 3 feet long with a loop in the top. You can see one behind my head with a man belaying from it here and a closer view of one here on the Eiger. These are exactly the conditions in which they are very nice to have in place.

Greg D - Feb 24, 2004 12:06 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: looks fun!

I'm curious about the etiquette for using these rebar posts. Is it first come first serve or is it understood that if there are guides in the area they are given first shot?



Thanks

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Feb 24, 2004 5:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

I don't know, never had the occassion come up - it would be a little odd to be arriving at a belay stance at exactly the same time - unless ascending and descending parties were meeting. I would assume first come, first serve. There would certainly be room to tie in while the other party did their thing and then proceed.

jrmcgurie9 - Oct 6, 2004 3:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

Great picture! What length rope did you use? If you placed pro, what did you place?

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Oct 6, 2004 4:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

We used our 50 m rope which was just the right length for rappelling the Mosely Slabs (upper & lower). We did not need the full length going up.



In ascent, we did not rope until the Lower Mosely Slab and placed no protection on any of the route, but we did use the posts for the fixed ropes and the fixed posts (see above) as belay points.

jrmcgurie9 - Nov 2, 2004 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

Did you use the fixed petons as pro then? Are there good places to place pro if you wanted to?? I ask only because I am hesitant to rope up unless placing some pro.

jrmcgurie9 - Nov 2, 2004 12:43 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks fun!

Were you guys using a running belay?

Cyrill

Cyrill - Jan 15, 2008 5:13 am - Voted 10/10

10+

soon at the mark :-)

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