Had a killer time climbing the North Arete. We finished the last two pitches on the Arete proper. Amazing exposure and views there.
Does anyone know what the difficulty of this variation maybe? It felt burly, but I was carrying a pack with a camp for the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse. Super fun route. And definitely the line on the mountain.
Second time up Matterhorn, but took the easiest way this time. Nice wildflower display this time up the creek! Hiked up fast and stuck to the brushy ridge from the pass area upward. Took the fast sandy scree down. Gotta try the Col sometime for variety.
braindancer - Jul 7, 2014 11:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014
Rematch fail
Came back for a rematch, thinking that now we know the route better and are in better shape. Made it to previous stopping point about 1.5 hours earlier. Advanced quite a bit but still ran out of time again.
Not sure about 5.5 miles BTW; we haven't made it even close to the summit and yet both our pedometers showed around 16 miles.
We started too late (9am), assuming this will be fairly quick (5.5 miles one way). Nope. This is the most confusing route ever, so we spent so much time figuring our way out that it was quite clear that we're not making it (needed to drive home that night).
AdamJ - Apr 15, 2014 5:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012
good times
second time up matterhorn peak. This time went up the couloir, had to use crampons/axe. Great glissade down. One of my all time favorites!
MarekB - Mar 18, 2014 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2014
Good climb
Climbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.
jbagley - Nov 14, 2013 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012
CAG Guided Trip
This was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.
Climbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.
Ze - Aug 29, 2013 9:10 pm Date Climbed: Dec 16, 2013
Great views
Nice hike except the scree slog on the final push.
Ruvicha - Aug 26, 2013 8:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
Long, Great Hike
See Ambret's entry in the summit log and trip report.
Ambret - Aug 23, 2013 1:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
Via SW Slope
Summitted with Ruvicha via Horse Creek Canyon and the southwest slope. A very long day for us, but it was great to get to the top after having had to turn back last year. Spectacular views in all directions.
orbitor - Aug 14, 2013 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013
From Horse Creek Pass
Summer Sierra season got under way with a solid climb of the northernmost SPS Emblem Peak. Trail from Twin Lakes up Horse Creek is ok, then all cross-country. Went up the side way too early and ended up climbing some very steep and loose terrain. Route up to Horse Creek Pass was very blocky. From HCP, a slog in the sand to near the summit; two steps up, one down. Very frustrating and exhausting. Eventually reached the solid rock near the top, climbed class 3 blocks to highpoint. Tremendous views in all directions. The off-trail, boulder-hoping part on the way back felt never-ending. Tough one-day ascent, but some of the best views anywhere!
CWessels - Jul 14, 2013 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013
Via East Coul.
I can't remember the exact date, so this is approximate.
The east couloir was just a slog. The only class 3 section (and the only part that was fun) is after you reach the saddle at the top of the couloir. Otherwise, it's class 2. I think the west coul. is probably a better scramble. In late season, do everything in your power to avoid the sand and talus on the west side of the snowfield; that is some of the steepest, LOOSEST choss I have ever hiked on. Ever.
Inspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well.
We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark.
Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try!
Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it.
Hyadventure - Oct 19, 2012 3:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
North Arete
A long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6.
This log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post.
ChuckO - Oct 15, 2012 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012
North Arete
Successful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb.
hoglord - Jul 29, 2014 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014
Route Climbed: North Arete DirectHad a killer time climbing the North Arete. We finished the last two pitches on the Arete proper. Amazing exposure and views there.
Does anyone know what the difficulty of this variation maybe? It felt burly, but I was carrying a pack with a camp for the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse. Super fun route. And definitely the line on the mountain.
colinr - Jul 25, 2014 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014
Up Horse Creek from Mono VillageSecond time up Matterhorn, but took the easiest way this time. Nice wildflower display this time up the creek! Hiked up fast and stuck to the brushy ridge from the pass area upward. Took the fast sandy scree down. Gotta try the Col sometime for variety.
braindancer - Jul 7, 2014 11:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014
Rematch failCame back for a rematch, thinking that now we know the route better and are in better shape. Made it to previous stopping point about 1.5 hours earlier. Advanced quite a bit but still ran out of time again.
Not sure about 5.5 miles BTW; we haven't made it even close to the summit and yet both our pedometers showed around 16 miles.
braindancer - Jul 7, 2014 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013
Timing/route-finding failWe started too late (9am), assuming this will be fairly quick (5.5 miles one way). Nope. This is the most confusing route ever, so we spent so much time figuring our way out that it was quite clear that we're not making it (needed to drive home that night).
AdamJ - Apr 15, 2014 5:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012
good timessecond time up matterhorn peak. This time went up the couloir, had to use crampons/axe. Great glissade down. One of my all time favorites!
MarekB - Mar 18, 2014 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2014
Good climbClimbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.
jbagley - Nov 14, 2013 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012
CAG Guided TripThis was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.
Hohniker - Sep 25, 2013 6:30 pm
WindyClimbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.
bleakley - Sep 19, 2013 3:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
summerWent up as part of a summer mountaineering class.
Ze - Aug 29, 2013 9:10 pm Date Climbed: Dec 16, 2013
Great viewsNice hike except the scree slog on the final push.
Ruvicha - Aug 26, 2013 8:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
Long, Great HikeSee Ambret's entry in the summit log and trip report.
Ambret - Aug 23, 2013 1:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
Via SW SlopeSummitted with Ruvicha via Horse Creek Canyon and the southwest slope. A very long day for us, but it was great to get to the top after having had to turn back last year. Spectacular views in all directions.
orbitor - Aug 14, 2013 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013
From Horse Creek PassSummer Sierra season got under way with a solid climb of the northernmost SPS Emblem Peak. Trail from Twin Lakes up Horse Creek is ok, then all cross-country. Went up the side way too early and ended up climbing some very steep and loose terrain. Route up to Horse Creek Pass was very blocky. From HCP, a slog in the sand to near the summit; two steps up, one down. Very frustrating and exhausting. Eventually reached the solid rock near the top, climbed class 3 blocks to highpoint. Tremendous views in all directions. The off-trail, boulder-hoping part on the way back felt never-ending. Tough one-day ascent, but some of the best views anywhere!
CWessels - Jul 14, 2013 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013
Via East Coul.I can't remember the exact date, so this is approximate.
The east couloir was just a slog. The only class 3 section (and the only part that was fun) is after you reach the saddle at the top of the couloir. Otherwise, it's class 2. I think the west coul. is probably a better scramble. In late season, do everything in your power to avoid the sand and talus on the west side of the snowfield; that is some of the steepest, LOOSEST choss I have ever hiked on. Ever.
ernestsson - Jun 11, 2013 1:40 am
A Little In Over Our HeadsInspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well.
We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark.
Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try!
Saluki72 - Apr 18, 2013 7:53 pm Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2013
Great Trip!Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it.
Hyadventure - Oct 19, 2012 3:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
North AreteA long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6.
Hyadventure - Oct 19, 2012 3:03 pm
Re: Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guideThis log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post.
ChuckO - Oct 15, 2012 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012
North AreteSuccessful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb.
roylac - Sep 6, 2012 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012
Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guideI'm not an experienced climber but my story and video might be helpful for others who are planning this climb.
http://roy.lachica.no/matterhorn/