Climbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.
This was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.
Climbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.
Went up as part of a summer mountaineering class.
Nice hike except the scree slog on the final push.
See Ambret's entry in the summit log and trip report.
Summitted with Ruvicha via Horse Creek Canyon and the southwest slope. A very long day for us, but it was great to get to the top after having had to turn back last year. Spectacular views in all directions.
Summer Sierra season got under way with a solid climb of the northernmost SPS Emblem Peak. Trail from Twin Lakes up Horse Creek is ok, then all cross-country. Went up the side way too early and ended up climbing some very steep and loose terrain. Route up to Horse Creek Pass was very blocky. From HCP, a slog in the sand to near the summit; two steps up, one down. Very frustrating and exhausting. Eventually reached the solid rock near the top, climbed class 3 blocks to highpoint. Tremendous views in all directions. The off-trail, boulder-hoping part on the way back felt never-ending. Tough one-day ascent, but some of the best views anywhere!
I can't remember the exact date, so this is approximate.
The east couloir was just a slog. The only class 3 section (and the only part that was fun) is after you reach the saddle at the top of the couloir. Otherwise, it's class 2. I think the west coul. is probably a better scramble. In late season, do everything in your power to avoid the sand and talus on the west side of the snowfield; that is some of the steepest, LOOSEST choss I have ever hiked on. Ever.
Inspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well.
We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark.
Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try!
Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it.
A long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6.
This log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post.
Successful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb.
I'm not an experienced climber but my story and video might be helpful for others who are planning this climb.
Did double Dihedral and traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after
Kind of a crappy sand slog, but with a good view. Day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Trip report.
day hike from Twin Lakes. there was a heavy thunder storm the night before in that area.
sub 4 hours from car to summit. probably my favorite area in the sierras. great views.
favorite mountain so far