(...) Within an hour or so we came on top of the border ridge, which we could tell by the red marks of the Macedonian trail. (...) At 6.30pm we reached the summit, marked with an old border pole. When the clouds gave way, we could see Panair and some of the surrounding mountains, all below us. Ivoš and David produced a flask of homemade plum brandy, we all took a gulp. To Michal, who I had not known but whose idea brought us there. We knew he was there with us.