Memorial

Page Type
Route
Location:
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
Bolted Slab
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.8

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Memorial
Created On: Jun 6, 2005
Last Edited On: Jun 6, 2005

Approach


The route is to the right of the Regular Route and to the right of a large right facing corner. The start is marked by a cairn with the first bolt being 15ft above the ground.

Route Description


The route was put up in 2004 by Alan Queen, Abbot King, and Kevin Caudill. Thier intention was to put a climb up that wouldn't be scary, and I think they did a good job. The bolts are well placed and the only runout section is 4th class climbing (pitch 2). Most of the pitches are almost full 60m rope lengths(note that a 50m rope will not cut it).
The pitches are straight forward - follow the bolt line - and are as follows:
Pitch 1 - 5.7
Pitch 2 - 4th class (half rope length).
Pitch 3 - 5.4
Pitch 4 - 5.7
Pitch 5 - 5.8
Pitch 6 - 5.8+ (there is an older looking anchor in the middle of this pitch - you can stop here if you really want to, but it isn't necessary and you'll give up the rest of your awesome lead).
Pitch 7 - 5.8
Pitch 8 - 5.7 (5.9 if you follow the bolt line over a bulge, 5.7 if you go around to the left)

Getting down: There is a walk - find the easiest way off backside of Slick Rock and head right (East). It is also possible to rap off the route with double ropes.

Essential Gear


13 quickdraws plus anchor draws
60meter rope (50meter is too short)
double ropes need if rappelling.

Miscellaneous Info


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