Middle Palisade Climber's Log

Viewing: 101-120 of 149
tpdwr

tpdwr - Sep 27, 2005 6:49 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 6, 1988  Sucess!

Perfect day for a great Peak. A little trouble on the way down finding the cross over.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Sep 20, 2005 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005  Sucess!

Done with Matthew as part of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Not a bad route, but bears little resemblance to Secor's route drawing. Trip Report

kovarpa

kovarpa - Sep 12, 2005 11:28 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Face variation Date Climbed: September 10, 2005  Sucess!

I soloed this Class 4-5 route pretty much by accident, by traversing too much too the right when attempting NE face. Considerable exposure and quite a bit of summit crest traverse to get to the summit proper... I downclimbed the NE face on the descent, but then didn't traverse back to my starting point and ended up downclimbing to the highest point of the Clyde glacier . Obviously, I am "route-finding challenged". Very fun, very high winds, pretty cold.

sierramtngoat

sierramtngoat - Sep 12, 2005 4:37 am

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 3, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed with Maria. I thought it the route was fun and relatively clean class 3, but some disagree. Don't be fooled by the bogus ducks when you scramble onto the moraine above finger lake. Climb up half way and traverse around to the left and get on the SW facing ramp that heads all the way up the north middle palisade glacier.

physics

physics - Sep 12, 2005 1:54 am

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: September 10, 2005  Sucess!

climbed with uwjennie from summitpost; good beta made for a good climb. It was very windy at the summit. The hardest part of the climb was coming off the glacier and onto the rock (hard class 4 to maybe mid class 5 moves); this can be by-passed though by climbing the rock band to the south. Will return to this peak later ...

ExploreABitMore

ExploreABitMore - Sep 11, 2005 8:37 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 09/10/05  Sucess!

Great peak. Perfect way to wrap up a summer of peak bagging. I'd have to agree with some others that it was a little looser than I was expecting. I didn't notice it at all going up, but coming down was a little slower as a result.

uwjennie

uwjennie - Sep 11, 2005 8:28 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept. 10, 2005  Sucess!

Great trip with Kurt H. (aka physics) from SP. Reached the summit from the trailhead after leaving overnight gear at Finger Lake on Saturday. Hiked out Sunday for an early return home.

Guilty

Guilty - Aug 31, 2005 11:28 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 08-28-05  Sucess!

Fourth ascent of this mountain and 68th 14'er. Very beautiful at Brainard and Finger lakes. Scouting a traverse route to Norman Clyde Peak with-out a rope.

Hmm! Has anyone did this w/o rope?

Guilty

Guilty - Aug 29, 2005 4:14 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 07-19-99  Sucess!

Saw many rocks rolling down the face. Very exciting.

BranchWhitney - Aug 26, 2005 1:00 am

Route Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: 8/22/2005  Sucess!

Great climb and great weather. Ice ax and crampons came in handy.

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Aug 17, 2005 1:57 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment Peak / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005  Sucess!

The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit.



The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4.

thebeave7

thebeave7 - Aug 1, 2005 3:21 am

Route Climbed: NE Chute via Class 4 chimney Date Climbed: 07/30/05  Sucess!

Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back.

Eric

orandall

orandall - Jul 25, 2005 11:12 am

Route Climbed: NE Face via Secor's chute Date Climbed: July 23 2005  Sucess!

A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks.

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Jul 18, 2005 12:35 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

Approached Secor's Chute without crampons; tricky, but doable.

Cody

Cody - Jul 11, 2005 2:56 pm

Route Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

My first attempt and summit on a 14'er. Several other groups were going up at the same time, which ment, "ROCK!" being yelled from time to time, but a good climb overall.

jefflach

jefflach - Jul 8, 2005 6:44 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 2nd, 2005  Sucess!

Beautiful climb and very warm. Still plenty of snow on the approach. The summit climb had patchy spots of snow, but there was plenty of room to get around them. My 1st 14.

soslaw

soslaw - Apr 18, 2005 2:22 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 8, 2004

Climbed with Andre and Robert under sunny Sierra skies. Made a rte error as we topped out at a U notch which was not the summit. As we had left Robert at the top of the glacier we did not attempt to reach the true summit.

RSN473

RSN473 - Dec 22, 2004 10:53 am

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 9-14-2000  Sucess!

Climbed solo after my partner started leaking oil just below the glacier. Excellent climb!

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Nov 5, 2004 11:31 pm

Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: June 30, 1981  Sucess!

Climbed this route with John Fischer, Allan Bard, and two clients as part of a Palisade School of Mountaineering custom guided tour of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I was the sherpa. In return for carrying the beer and other goodies, I was allowed to tag along on the climb. The weather was overcast, and turned into heavy snow just as we reached the summit. Our view from the top was limited to a few hundred feet. Too bad, this is such an awesome place. The storm dropped over a foot of snow. The next morning dawned clear and warm. Watched in awe as dozens of wet snow avalanches swept the faces of this and the surrounding peaks. Unforgettable.

ghoulwe2

ghoulwe2 - Sep 27, 2004 7:32 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 28, 2004  Sucess!

Three members of the Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club: Dave Johnson, Charlie Downs & John Wettstein, summited Middle Palisade via the NE Face at 9:00 AM.

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