Middle Sister Climber's Log

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AlexeyD - Aug 27, 2012 2:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2012

beautiful!  Sucess!

Renfrew Glacier route from camp at Arrowhead Lake. Very late start (probably 10 AM or so), but made good time up the approach and glacier. A short, but steep (45 degrees or so) and icy snowfield about halfway up the north ridge was the crux of the route - three other climbers on the mountain that day had to turn around because they had not brought crampons and axes, thus we had the summit to ourselves. Excellent views to the north despite the haze, all the way to Hood and Adams. All in all, this is a very mellow and straightforward outing (except for that short bit on the north ridge) over some beautiful country and probably the world's friendliest glacier.

Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Aug 23, 2012 4:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2012

Extra miles  Sucess!

After first missing the climber's trail turn off, I lost track of the trail under the snow. In spite of the many climbers who went up yesterday, their tracks coming down had already disappeared in the melting snow. The route description was confusing to me and I went up the wrong gully and ridge, which I realized when I reached a rock strewn and crevasse filled glacier, below a high and steep rock
wall! I angled lower and crossed the glacier safely to the correct ridge and made the slow steep climb to the summit, having the mountain to myself on a Monday. Coming down I tried to follow the correct route but again lost it trying to get back to the climber's trail. I checked the track the gps app on my tablet was making and was able to easily head cross country to rejoin the trail, however I soon realized I didn't have my trekking poles anymore! I followed the gps track back to where I stopped to get it out of my pack and there were my poles! After losing about an hour I was back on the trail, and reached the trail head 10 hr 34 min and 19.4 miles later.


bedellympian - Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

consolation prize  Sucess!

Tried North without beta and got sketched out by the bad scree and route finding issues. Ran up Middle to make ourselves feel more accomplished. Nice view and stuff I guess.


nicozone - Jun 19, 2012 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

Second Times the Charm  Sucess!

After trying to climb Middle Sister via Obsidian TH two years ago (in June-uary), I'm glad to say that I have laid this beast to rest. We started from Pole Creek TH, camped just above treeline in the valleys in-between Middle and North, and headed up the North Ridge via Hayden Glacier on Sunday morning. We originally planned to leave at 4am, but a large group of Mazamas were planning to rope up and attempt the same route at 3:30am, so we decided to postpone and go at 5am to give them enough time so that we didn't bottleneck. Got to the summit at 9:30am. Great snow conditions and a fun bit of exposed ice to traverse.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Jun 5, 2012 12:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2011

Perfect day  Sucess!

Clear day with good friends.


mrmaxtrax - Apr 19, 2012 1:50 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

hayden glacier  Sucess!

chemeketan climb success!


mastercoog - Feb 19, 2012 6:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011

Middle Sister North Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed Middle Sister the same day after climbing North Sister via the saddle between north and middle after camping the night before at Arrowhead Lake. Was a fun rock climb but a ice sheet on the normal route force us to do some hands and knees climbing around it which we tried to avoid on the descent but it ended up being the safest option. Great views. Enjoyed the glissades on the glaciers back to camp.


santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 11:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2011

Hayden Glacier, North Ridge  Sucess!

Not much in the way of crevasses on the glacier. We moved well up to the notch between North and Middle. One group member had some issues on the final ridge that forced them to turn back, but everyone else made it aside from a second who went back with them for safety sake. Windy, but not bad.

Infected Mushroom

Infected Mushroom - Sep 18, 2011 10:12 pm

North ridge x3  Sucess!

Been up it a few times now, need me some skis.


RangerMark - Aug 12, 2011 10:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

Arrowhead Lake Camp  Sucess!

Climbed up from Arrowhead Lake and then crossed onto the east face, did some rock/ice climbing to the summit. Great views and amazing clear day!

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Aug 8, 2011 11:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

West face...  Sucess!

My wife and I took a group up the West Face of MS. We started at the Obsidian trailhead. Hiked up to, and camped at Arrowhead Lake (6900') Saturday night. Sunday, started climbing at 5:00am, and summited at 10:00am. Our route touched the south edge of the Renfrew Glacier, and then straight up the West Face, which is a nice blocky stair step to the summit. We descended the North Ridge / Renfrew Glacier route. The weather was perfect. Arrowhead Lake is still frozen and covered with snow, but had a couple of exposed spots for a great water source. Camp spots at Arrowhead Lake are bare and snow free. Crampons are necessary if climbing in the early morning...ice axe and helmet are, of course, advisable.


bc44caesar - Aug 3, 2011 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011

North Ridge  Sucess!

Descended the South Ridge of North Sister, then up the North Ridge of Middle Sister. Snow and scree, very straightforward climb. Went on to South Sister to complete the Sisters Marathon.


graham - Jul 15, 2011 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2011

Hayden Glacier route  Sucess!

Great day on MS with great views of all the Oregon volcanoes lined up


e-doc - May 25, 2011 1:35 am Date Climbed: May 24, 2011

snow snow everywhere  Sucess!

Snowshoed in from Pole Cr. Record spring snow in the Cascades. Snow and wind Monday afternoon and night but totally clear early morning. My partner became ill at the saddle and I summited solo. Beautiful day.


RetroGear - Jan 9, 2011 11:33 pm

My First Peak

I first climbed the Middle Sister during a week at Boy Scout Camp Melakwa. That was back in 1970. Had a great time.


iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 6:40 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2010

I did this sister twice in a day  Sucess!

As part of my solo Marathon, I camped at the highest cave in Oregon on the summit of Middle Sister, so I had to re-summit it after climbing N. Sister earlier in the day. Then I went down the west side to do South Sister the next day. One of the most incredible climbs of my life. I also had a ice alpine summit of Middle from the Obsidian Trail side earlier in the year.


mansfieo - Dec 19, 2010 5:04 am

Fun Climb  Sucess!

First volcano I ever climbed. 12 years old


JGHarrison - Jul 11, 2010 11:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

SE Ridge ish  Sucess!

We camped somwhere just east of camp lake. Hiked a ridge that I believe was the next ridge over from the main southeast route. No need for crampons or ice ax via this route, unless you start really early. The snow was mushy enough that crampons wouldnt have done anything. Mosquitos are heinous in places, not bad at all in other spots. I would recommend camping lower to avoid the bugs.


nicozone - Jul 5, 2010 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

Horrible June Weather

Attempted to climb from the Obsidian Trailhead, but we ended up starting at 7 miles down the Old McKenzie Hwy because the road is still closed. Heavy snow covered the ground for at least a few feet starting at the trailhead and all the trails are completely buried. We navigated by the lava flows, but had to turn back after thick fog and snow rolled in.


kraymes - Jul 2, 2010 2:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1989

N Ridge f/ the West  Sucess!

Left my girlfriend at the time about 1700' below the summit, where she was "attacked" by hummingbirds. I had to hear about that for the rest of the relationship.

Viewing: 1-20 of 115
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