Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) is the easternmost 7000 m peak, entirely in the Chinese province Sichuan. It is situated about 1000 km east of the any other peak of comparable height. This area has long been a white spot on the maps, and until the 1930s there were rumours that Minya Konka might be higher than Everest.
Although completely situated in Sichuan, the Minya Konka marks a cultural and topgraphical boundary between China/Sichuan with a humid moderate climate in the east and (climatically and culturally) Tibetan influenced dry highlands in the west.
The Minya Konka area was intensely explored in the 1930s, amongst others by the Swiss topographer and artist Eduard Imhof.
It was first climbed in 1932 by an American expedition; they also did an intense surveying work in the area, establishing the height of 7556 m. They describe their climb and the months in China in the book "Men against the Clouds", an outstanding piece of mountain literature.
Until 2001, there were only seven more successful climbs:
Until 2003, the mountain was climbed eight times. 22 persons have reached the summit. 16 climbers did not return from Minya Konka. All except one successful ascents were via the northwest ridge.
The normal route of the NW ridge, as established by the 1932 expedition, has three major sections:
The route from Yanzigou Glacier joins the route described above on the northwest ridge; Hump and summit ridge are the same for both.
The mountain is accessed from the lamasery Gongga Gompa, west of Minya Konka. From Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, one can travel by car via Kangding and Shade to the valley of Liuba (2 days), and the rest is a two day trek:
The Chinese refer to the lamasery as "base camp". However, a reasonable place for the base camp is one day further towards the base of the mountain at 4380 m.
One can also access the area from the east side (Moxi, national park with intense touristic activity). Three out of the eight successful expeditions entered the area from there via Yanzigou Valley which is situated on the northern side of Minya Konka. Either the NW ridge or the (more difficult) NE ridge can be accessed from there.
The direct access to Minya Konka from Moxi via Hailuoguo Glacier is blocked by a huge icefall; up to now there were no successful ascents from there, and the way from there to the base camp would take several days.
Climbing this mountain is an expedition - you need a permit.
The climb can be organized via Sichuan Mountaineering Association in Chengdu, or China Mountaineering Association in Beijing.
Minya Konka can be climbed before or after the monsoon, i.e. either in April/May or in September/October. The weather is usually very unstable even during these times, because the mountain group rises high above the surrounding area and thus creates its own weather.
As the success statistics (see Overview chapter) shows, the weather in fall seems a little more promising than in spring.
The only building in the area is the lamasery, so camping is the only way. There is a lot of scrub up to 5000 m altitude - one might have to look a while for a really good place. A good basecamp site is at about 4380 m, there is also running water (at least sometimes). The little valley is avalanche-safe and there are lots of birds singing, a beautiful place.
High Camps (for the normal route from Gongga Gompa on the left pillar):
There is hardly any up to date information about the conditions, since the mountain is climbed not very often.
Generally, the weather in spring seems extremely unstable, leading to pronounced avalanche danger on the "classical" route from about 4900 m to the NW ridge at about 5800 m.
This mountain page is the result of our 2001 expedition to Minya Konka. Since then, many things have changed in China (although the mountain still seems to be rarely attempted).
Most of the information which you find above dates from 2001. If you were there in the last few years and found things different, please do not hesitate to add a comment, or to contribute directly to a major update of this page. Thank you!