Missionary’s Crack, 5.10a

1st Pitch- 35m- 5.8/ Even though this is not even 5.8 grade climbing in my opinion, this pitch can be a problem as it is so easy to get your ropes stuck on the far ranging traverse just off the deck. Step up and clip a piton, then traverse out right along suspect rock. Avoid temptation to follow another piton up a short corner along the way. You need to head into the broad open left facing corner way over right. Once in the corner itself, ascend easy ground to a small ledge to the right with a piton belay. I got my ropes stuck on lead on this pitch and never got the rope pull completely unstuck until the 2nds came across the traverse. I advise solid rope management on the traverse, I did not realize I was going into the large corner way out right. Using double length runners actually worked against me due to the bulges the ropes were getting caught under. Missionary’s Crack, 5.10a, 7 Pitches, Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies, August, 2008