Mo, 5.9, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Handren calls the first pitch of this route “Nowhere Man” in his local guide (new edition, 2018).  But the FAer’s have added  additional pitches and call the new route Mo.  The only fixed pro on the route was added to the 2nd pitch which is a bolted face traverse to connect the stellar lower cave/chimney with the good corner/roof above (3rd pitch).  If you avoid pitch four, you can extend this route straight up onto a route named Sugar Plum to the top of the formation.

The third pitch offers an outstanding hand corner/crack lead on varnished rock with a fun stem/chimney finish and is the focal point of the route.  The first pitch also offers unique and fun climbing at the grade via stemming in a deep and wide chimney and then traversing out to steep hands.  The second pitch offers some exposed, but well protected face climbing.  The last pitch offers a relatively easy finger splitter in a dark vanished setting.

Park at Pine Creek and enter the canyon as you would for Dark Shadows.  Head straight up the hill on your right as you would for the Out of Control Area.  Look to match the route with the beta photo at this juncture.  You are aiming for a narrow ledge even height with a small cave.  Mo is located approximately 500’ to the west of Birdland and in reality offers every bit as good a climb with no competition (2018) to get on it.  From Birdland, look for a 200’ high tower 500’ to the west, the right side of which harbors a crack system with a cave and ledge at the bottom of it.  You start the route in this cave like setting.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 115’-5.9/ An excellent and varied pitch.  Stem the deep chimney to where it roofs out and make a fun traverse out right (east), kneel down and squeeze through the hole.  Then climb the right facing corner, slightly chossy, up to an overhanging wide section with a ledge out left.  Traverse to the ledge and climb a shallow left facing corner up to the fixed rap back right.  Nice pitch at the grade utilizing a variety of climbing skills. 

2nd Pitch- 50’-5.9/ Clip a bolt out right and step down and make an exposed traverse out right, then up through three other bolts:  airy, but well featured face climbing at the grade.  Then traverse right and up a wide, C4#5, chossy crack to a fixed rap.

Move the belay to the right through bushes to the base of an obvious, well varnished, right facing corner with a small roof on top.

3rd Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Climb (on much better rock than below) the hand jam corner up to the roof/bulge.  Dig in to place gear, then squeeze out right and make airy jug pulls.  As good as any pitch of the nearby classics, i.e. Dark Shadows or Birdland.  A few more meters up a face to a fixed, semi hanging rap.

4th Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Traverse up and right to the obvious left to right leaning splitter in the black rock (lower angled than the first three pitches).  Climb this fun splitter to its top and then keep trending up and right to a fixed rap above a chimney system.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Two double 60m rope raps to the ground (another cave like setting) via a route named Sugar Plum.  Traverse east and then back west to the base.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes. A competent leader at the grade would get by with a single to C4#3.  Someone leading at their limit should carry a #4 and #5.  Plenty of shoulder length slings.  Route receives good sun in December.