That must have been quite a experience back then - and quite shattering...I don't know what I would have done already after the devastating news of that first night, after the avalanche...
We were just 23 & 22 years old and in my case lacking in imagination back then. We also resorted to a big dose of denial (not the river in Egypt).
But to add further perspective, the death toll on Mont Blanc is shocking - I've heard as much as 160 in a single season in the Chamonix valley. My recent and 5th ascent is the only time I have been on the mountain when I have not been involved with a rescue or found out deaths had occurred: In 1989 I called out a rescue helicopter for a party of Dutch lads who had never climbed before, who thought Mont Blanc a fitting 1st objective (got stuck on Aiguille de Gouter). Following year I guided a work colleague in a traverse of Mont Blanc in perfect conditions, but 3 people died on the mountain in the 3 days we were on it - believe it was crevasse falls on the Grande Mulets route.
But we still keep going to these places don't we?
Best wishes, Mark
Finally got around to finish reading this. I have to say your TRs are really enjoyable to read! I particularly like the soup cooking part :p How long did it take you to type all this up? Great effort!
Cheers, Phil
Thanks Phil, very kind of you to say that. I actually wrote this all a long time ago, for something else and it was relatively quick just to tweak here & there for putting on SP. I have another one to put on soon about Scotland and completely different... watch this space!
Just seen you have also done a TR on Mont Blanc - must have a proper read when I have time. But at a glance photo's look terrific - and so you were solo up there as well!
All the best, Mark
Thanks for the kind words. Sorry about delay in replying - been away. Yes it was an amazing experience albeit subdued by the tragedies we witnessed. Doubtless the route will have changed a bit in the 2 decades since we did it - and of course making a winter ascent will be something else again. I wish you best of look with weather and conditions.... the only time I tried to make a winter ascent of MB, in 2 weeks of trying, highest I got was somewhere about level with the Grande Mulet Hut, struggling in deep snow in snow-shoes. Did rather better on Grande Casse a few years later - making a solo winter ascent on mainly on ski's!
Anyway - best of luck - and do let us know how you get on!
Best wishes, Mark
EricChu - Aug 13, 2010 4:49 am - Voted 10/10
A very gripping trip report!That must have been quite a experience back then - and quite shattering...I don't know what I would have done already after the devastating news of that first night, after the avalanche...
markhallam - Aug 13, 2010 5:32 am - Hasn't voted
Deaths on Mont BlancWe were just 23 & 22 years old and in my case lacking in imagination back then. We also resorted to a big dose of denial (not the river in Egypt).
But to add further perspective, the death toll on Mont Blanc is shocking - I've heard as much as 160 in a single season in the Chamonix valley. My recent and 5th ascent is the only time I have been on the mountain when I have not been involved with a rescue or found out deaths had occurred: In 1989 I called out a rescue helicopter for a party of Dutch lads who had never climbed before, who thought Mont Blanc a fitting 1st objective (got stuck on Aiguille de Gouter). Following year I guided a work colleague in a traverse of Mont Blanc in perfect conditions, but 3 people died on the mountain in the 3 days we were on it - believe it was crevasse falls on the Grande Mulets route.
But we still keep going to these places don't we?
Best wishes, Mark
phlipdascrip - Sep 18, 2010 9:16 pm - Voted 10/10
Very well doneFinally got around to finish reading this. I have to say your TRs are really enjoyable to read! I particularly like the soup cooking part :p How long did it take you to type all this up? Great effort!
Cheers, Phil
markhallam - Sep 20, 2010 1:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very well doneThanks Phil, very kind of you to say that. I actually wrote this all a long time ago, for something else and it was relatively quick just to tweak here & there for putting on SP. I have another one to put on soon about Scotland and completely different... watch this space!
Just seen you have also done a TR on Mont Blanc - must have a proper read when I have time. But at a glance photo's look terrific - and so you were solo up there as well!
All the best, Mark
Pep - Jun 8, 2011 3:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Fantastic!Great route and amazing experience! I want to climb it this winter. Congrats mark!
markhallam - Jun 21, 2011 12:22 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fantastic!Thanks for the kind words. Sorry about delay in replying - been away. Yes it was an amazing experience albeit subdued by the tragedies we witnessed. Doubtless the route will have changed a bit in the 2 decades since we did it - and of course making a winter ascent will be something else again. I wish you best of look with weather and conditions.... the only time I tried to make a winter ascent of MB, in 2 weeks of trying, highest I got was somewhere about level with the Grande Mulet Hut, struggling in deep snow in snow-shoes. Did rather better on Grande Casse a few years later - making a solo winter ascent on mainly on ski's!
Anyway - best of luck - and do let us know how you get on!
Best wishes, Mark
LoneRanger - Sep 25, 2011 4:47 pm - Voted 10/10
One of the bestTRs I have read!
markhallam - Sep 26, 2011 5:03 am - Hasn't voted
Re: One of the bestThanks LoneRanger, glad you enjoyed it
cheers, Mark