Monte Biaena, Via Ferrata del Somator

Monte Biaena, Via Ferrata del Somator

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.88380°N / 10.97042°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Via Ferrata
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Difficulty: EEA - Easy Via Ferrata
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Monte Biaena 1618 m, Via Ferrata del Somator

This itinerary is a round trip which provides a pleasant and panoramic ascent along a route running on the North-East ridge of Monte Biaena 1618 m and involving brief and quite easy rocky moves, well equipped, along Via Ferrata Somator, and the descent by walking on "Sentiero della Pace" (Peace Trail). Monte Biaena m. 1618 is an interesting mountain belonging to Prealpi Trentine, located between Val Lagarina with Rovereto and Val di Gresta. Monte Biaena is rocky and steep on its East side (Val Lagarina), on the contrary covered by dense vegetation, mainly composed of coniferous and deciduous beechs, on its West side (Val di Gresta). On the summit there are a cross, some trenches and caves of the Austro-Hungarian positions during the First World War. Just below the culminating point of the mountain, on Val di Gresta side (West), we also can find the nice Capanna Monte Biaena, erected by S.A.T. Val di Gresta in the year 1984, on the ruins of WWI cable car summit station starting from Ronzo-Chienis. Also some engineering works designed to collect rainwater, established by the Austrian army during the WWI, are visible, in addition to a small chapel.

Monte Biaena East wall
Monte Biaena East wall
Monte Biaena summit and Val d'Adige
Monte Biaena summit and Val d'Adige

 

Monte Biaena prime and particular location makes it a summit from which it's possible to enjoy unusually large views all around. It's a true open balcony. When we reach the top the view extends to 360° over all the surrounding mountains and we can understand what was the strategic importance of Mount Biaena to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The whole Vallagarina, Mount Baldo and Lessini, Pasubio, Carega, Adamello and Presanella, Garda Lake and the Folgaria Plateau, everything remains in view. Mount Biaena was never involved in infantry fighting, anyhow it played an important role for strategic control of surroundings.

Getting There

Road approach

Coming from A22 Auto Brennero exit Rovereto Sud. From Rovereto are two possible roads to reach Passo Bordala, the starting of our outing: via Val di Gresta or via Val Lagarina.

Long shadows at Passo Bordala
Long shadows at Passo Bordala - Photo Alberto Rampini
Monte Stivo from approach to M. Biaena
Monte Stivo from approach to M. Biaena

 

- Val di Gresta approach: follow the signposts to Riva del Garda, getting to Loppio, between Mori and Nago. At Loppio roundabout turn to right and follow the signposts to Val di Gresta, along the road SP88, towards the village of Ronzo – Chienis, which you will reach after about 12 kilometers. Passed this village continue in the direction of Passo Bordala m. 1253, lying between Val di Gresta and Vallagarina, getting to Prà del Lac, then to the Restaurant La Baita m 1180, located just before the pass on the right. Continuing a few hundred meters to the left there is a parking lot.

- Val Lagarina approach: follow the signposts to Villa Lagarina and Passo di Cei, then to Passo Bordala and Ristorante la Baita

On the summit of Monte Biaena
On the summit of Monte Biaena
Ferrata del Somator signpost
Ferrata del Somator signpost
Horizontal stretch on Via Ferrata del Somator
Horizontal stretch on Via Ferrata del Somator
Carè Alto seen from Monte Misone
Carè Alto and Monte Cadria
Monte Stivo from Biaena summit cairn
Monte Stivo from Biaena summit cairn
Capanna Monte Biaena on the summit
Capanna Monte Biaena on the summit

Route

Via Ferrata del Somator description

Difficulty: EEA (expert hikers with equipment) Equipment: the route is well equipped with iron ropes along the most difficult steps Difference in level: 300 m. from Malga Somator, 420 from La Baita Exposure: NE

Easy, short and not exposed Via Ferrata that leads up along the North-East ridge of Biaena to the panoramic summit of the mountain. The difference in level is low. The Via Ferrata is managed by the section S.A.T. and has been recently retooled.

Monte Stivo seen from Capanna M. Biaena
Monte Stivo seen from Capanna M. Biaena
Casa Grigolli on the Sentiero della Pace
Casa Grigolli on the Sentiero della Pace

 

The start is at the restaurant La Baita m. 1180, shortly before Passo Bordala, if coming from Ronzo-Chienis (shortly after the pass if coming from Villa Lagarina), from where a track leads to Malga Somator m. 1310. Reached the shelter, located in the middle of wide meadows, just in front of it across the road and on the right are clearly visible the signposts in the direction to Via Ferrata. Here it begins the route. A well-defined path rising along the slopes through the wood makes us climb up to the mountain NE ridge, along which the itinerary winds. This is the starting point of the equipped sections, that are short and not continuous, alternating with stretches of trail along the crest rising South ward.

Three ridges, Carè Alto close-up
Three ridges, Carè Alto close-up
Biaena benchmark
Biaena benchmark

 

The upper part of the route overcomes a wide groove on a rocky cliff, giving access to the summit ridge. This is the steepest section, equipped with metal cables and fixtures. Exiting the rocks follow the easy summit ridge, leading to the wide grassy summit of the mountain. From the summit meadows heading uphill to the left the trail reachs the summit cross with amazing views all around, while slightly down to the right you reach instead the beautiful Capanna Monte Biaena.

Descent: two possibilities

- from the summit cross descend immediately to the East taking the path 673 (Sentiero della Pace) that descends at first along a grassy slope, then across the wood getting to Casa Grigolli, then following the road to Malga Somator

- from the summit cross head to West, reach the Capanna Monte Biaena and from here take the path descending along the West slope to Passo Bordala

Presanella SE side seen from Monte Biaena
Presanella SE side seen from Monte Biaena

Essential gear

Via Ferrata set is advisable on the last steep crag

Red Tape

No fees no permits required.

When to Climb

All year round. The mountain is frequently accessible also in wintertime, but you need to inquire in advance about the presence of snow or ice along the route, in which case the route is not advisable.

Shelters

Malga Somator
Malga Somator
Capanna Monte Biaena
Capanna Monte Biaena

- Malga Somator

- Capanna Monte Biaena

Accomodation

Several possibilities of accomodation in Val Lagarina and Val di Gresta

Meteo Forecast

Meteo Trentino

External Links

Trentino Grande Guerra



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.