Moon Goddess Arete

Overview of key features of Moon Goddess Arete (important belay stations indicated with small red dots). The text near the top is not very clear - the captions (from top to bottom of route) are as follows: "final headwall (5.6)", "20' rap", "flat chockstone", "5.7 wide gully", "off route minor arete", "Ibrium Tower traverse (4th)", "crux dihedral (5.8)", "chimney (5.7)", "the notch", "First Tower traverse (5.7)", "long class 4- low 5th section", "class 3 ledges".

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Dragger

Dragger - Sep 8, 2004 2:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Wonderful Beta!!

Thanks much RPC. Your pictures are all great and this one provides so much helpful beta. I've been looking at this route as well. One question -- you list the crux at 5.8 -- is it true? I thought the route went at 5.7. ( I start getting wimpy at leading once the route gets to be 5.8 or tougher! ;^)

rpc

rpc - Sep 8, 2004 2:31 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Wonderful Beta!!

Dragger,

thank you for your nice comments.



Dave Daly lists the route rating on his page at IV 5.7. Secor and Super Topo call it 5.8 (ST actually says that there are 2 P of .8......that I think is definitely NOT true). Debate can go on I'm sure....but the section of climb in question is no more than 20' long, protects beautifully (cams in under 3" range I think), has solid & clean rock, and is not sustained (even the 20 feet have nice rests). I doubt that you'd have any problems with any of it if you're comfy. with .7's.



Just don't take that stupid "minor arete" onto which I went by mistake - that I thought was just plain scary (loose rock and fairly hard for me).



Have fun - it's a very nice climb IMHO!



Dragger

Dragger - Sep 8, 2004 4:36 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Wonderful Beta!!

Thanks!!!

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Nov 18, 2004 7:09 pm - Voted 10/10

Echo Dragger's comment

Great photo, lots of good route info. Wish there were more like this on SP!



Steve

rpc

rpc - Nov 18, 2004 7:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Echo Dragger's comment

Thanks Steve.

Have you done this climb? I know you did the Venusian Blind. Wondering how they compare in the quality of climbing? Would like to go back there next summer for another route, either VB or that .9-ish one to the right (Moon Goddess). Both look pretty awsome.....as does Bear Creek Spire/N. Ridge. Loads of good stuff in the Sierras (and a nice, long climbing season!)

radek

rpc

rpc - Nov 19, 2004 1:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Echo Dragger's comment

I guess the most appealing thing about that Moongoddess (for me) is that Tyrolean traverse midway up the route. It's kind of cool you actually have to (well, I guess you CAN skip it) do one halfway up a route!



Nice TR with good beta on that N. Arete on BCS.

radek

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