stopped by crevasses and threatening weather.
My friend Gary and I took the 6 day Mountaineering class from Alpine Ascents, with guides Rachel and Winslow. (who were outstanding). We had 6 others in the class, though two had to turn back 2 hours into the climb from lack of fitness. The rest of the group were strong climbers. We made two camps on the way up. Summit day, very foggy at high camp. It was freezing fog by 9,000 ft. We got out of the clouds about 600 ft below the summit. It warmed up very quick that day. By the time we reach high camp, 7,000ft, it was 55-60 degrees and hot in our climbing gear. We had a snow storm that night that half buried our camp.
Great ice climb with Pablo Puruncajas.
My first climb ... and I was hooked from that point on!
This a beautiful fun mountain with easy access and good glacier travel. Good climbing with Norman on the rope. Camp on glacier or one day from car. It's always fun.
Windy. Super windy. Super-duper windy.
I love Baker it really has all the aspects of a big mountain on a small scale. I have climbed it many times by five different routes; The Easton, The Coleman-demming, The squak, The boulder and the North Ridge. All of them have unique qualities and varied difficulties. The mountain is changing though. The Roman headwall is gradually melting away, making it somtimes necessary to climb dirt instead of ice and snow. A couple years ago a huge chunk of ice broke off the North summit, leaving debris all across the Boulder. The climbing is still fun and the Veiws, Awsome!
Summited as part of a 3 day skills clinic with AAI. Weather could not have been better, great trip! Here are some photos and brief write-up.
Summited at noon on August 30th. Day trip - 16 hour climb.
Best view from the summit of any Cascade volcano. Great conditions.
First time in 2002, up the Easton Glacier, Roman Headwall to the summit.
Second climb was the Colema-Demming route and lastly, the North Ridge. Our high-camp was engulfed in volcanic sulpher fumes, could hardly breath.
Weather was hot, I recall having to plunge step down the Easton.
Best view of the volcanoes I've climbed so far. It wasn't even that clear out.
Great but wet climb!
Perfect weather and great company. Crevasses opening between 8000 and 9000 but you can veer to climbers left at 7200 ft to avoid unpassable crevasses but there are others opening all over.
Black Buttes to the summit in 3.5 hours or so. Pretty eerie to climb by starlight over the Coleman Glacier. Snow was awesome, and we made it from the summit to the cars in 4 hours.
Enjoyable climb. We started on friday and camped at Black Buttes. Saturday was much warmer (lots of punching through to my knees), and there were many more people. We had the upper mountain to ourselves, from the pumice ridge below the Roman Wall to the summit and back.
With the WAC basic class, one year late (took the class in 2007 and we were completely shut out by weather). Conditions were perfect and our climb was uneventful, but a bit spooky because of the fatal accident on the other side of the mountain the day before we went up.
Beautiful mountain... not so beautiful weather. Climbed to the glacier despite whiteout conditions, and couldn't make it further. Tried again the following day but same conditions. Sad footnote to the weekend on the mountain was the missing skier, Kevin LaFleur. God bless him, I know he's in a better place, and after meeting his brother and friends realize he must have been one hell of a guy. The trip was definitely a stark reminder of how dangerous mountains can be.
Bivvy on Heliotrope Ridge the night before we climbed. Hoards of people on the mountain the following day, including many turkeys romping around on the glaicer in tennis shoes; oblivious to the crevasse danger. Luckily, the upper part of the mountain was uncrowded and the climbing very enjoyable. A fine summit.
Went with the Washington Alpine Club. First Cascade glacier climb for me, and the start of a fun lifetime.