Probably the most gorgeous mountain I have been on.
Fun alpine scramble.... Straight forward route finding. We had perfect weather. Camped at Peggy's Pond. 5.5 hours camp to camp.
Amazing! I took the advice of many and did this one as an over nighter. I hiked up past Peggy's Pond passing several open campsites, up over a small ridge and down into a valley where I crossed Hyas creek and camped up on a ridge near three small tarns at the bottom of the Hyas creek glacier valley. Summited the first day with perfect conditions and great visibility and had an amazing camp that night. No people within sight and NO BUGS! I think the freeze the week before killed them, but I didn't even see a mosquito. Trip report HERE!
Wanted to try to get home before west side traffic, so I blasted up to 7000' in trail runners. Took the 'low option' off the ridge crest at 7130' (N47 33.414 W121 09.979). To me, this looks like a much better option than staying on the ridge crest (at least in late season). Was almost all class 1 + 2 for the route, with just a couple moves of low-exposure class 3. Never had to touch the ice axe. Awesome views, most of the forest fire smoke is cleared out. 3hr 15min up, 2hr 25min down.
Camped at Pea Soup Lake with great views of the Lynch Glacier. It was too late in the season to access the glacier so we opted to climb the Daniel Glacier. No need to rope up as the glacier was in great shape and low angle. Most beautiful wilderness I've seen.
I have tried to get this one 3 times. Each time failing in poor weather conditions and lack of desire to snag this peak without nice views. Finally I got the opportunity.
I would absolutely suggest camping the 14 miles round trip are pretty tough and although it could probably be done in a day. The 2 day trek is much nicer and Peggy's pond is a great place to camp.
Planned to make it to the west peak by crossing the ridge to the east of the East peak and gaining the Daniel glacier, but we gained the ridge a bit too high for easy access. Dropped below the south side of East Peak and followed climber's trail up. Socked in by fog and didn't realize there was a non-glaciated route from there to West Peak. Still a fun day. Very buggy at Peggy's Pond.
Just stayed along the South Spine. It was pretty simple. I didn't hit the glacier cause I didn't have crampons. Did it in one day. If I did it again, I'd hike to Peggy's pond, camp and do the mountain the next day.
Sat. in August 2003. Up the SE ridge and down Hyas Glacier. Raced some guy to the car.
Pretty area, took three days camping around and learning the basics of snow climbing and crevasse rescue on a mountaineering course.
Great climb! We were soaked with rain then it turned to snow! Very slow with fresh snow and poor visibility. We turned back due to the storm settling in. Just below the East Summit.
We only had one day and the forecast left room to hope. We had great views all the way to Peggy's Pond. By the time we were on the SE ridge visibility was 50 yards or less. We found our way all the way to the main summit hoping the weather would break. It didn't. On the way down we had some route finding issues. This one ended up a long and thankless day hike.
Barely made it to the trailhead, bucked a fallen tree on the road with a small handsaw and axe. Snow at the trailhead, then consistent partway up to Squaw Lake. Kept getting off the trail and back on, camped the night at Peggy's Pond.
Got going by 3:20am but was on-and-off whiteout and kept sprinkling on us, so turned back at the ridge below East Summit (~7200') because of miserable conditions for the ascent and fear of worsening snow conditions for safely descending (evidence of small avalanches recently) and miserable exit.
Overnight at Peggy's Pond then middle summit via Hyas Glacier, over the ridge below the East Summit and over the top of Daniels Glacier. My first time roping up for glacier travel, two man team.
Very hot with deep snow. nice scenery.
Been wanting to fill this one in for years on the map. Climbed with Jim and Luna. Bugs were not maddening but they were very annoying. Drove up Saturday morning, had lunch at the Roslyn Cafe, hiked in mid afternoon after a short detour to retrieve Jim's backpack that had fallen 150 feet down a cliff on the traverse to Peggy's Pond (bane of old school external frame packs). Slept well under the Milky Way which apparently there is some debate now if we really are part of? Started out early and made the SE Ridge quickly. Jim and Luna decided to stay behind on the ridge while I hopped up to East Peak (the thin scree traverse over reminded me I was on a volcano) and then over to the West Peak in a cold wind. Signed the summit register and headed back. Saw 3 other climbers doing East Peak that must have come up from one of the glacier routes. Got a little far right on the descent and had to climb heather slopes to get back on track. Luna didn't care much or the dusty hike out and she slept soundly in the back of the car on the drive back to Portland. Excellent time on my annual birthday climb. Thanks Jim for going old school again and secretly bringing in Hostess Ding Dongs to celebrate.
Did this in two days. A great trip but the bugs were pretty bad at Peggy's Pond.
Made it to the East Peak from a camp at the only dry spot at Peggy's Pond. Snow the whole way with signs of huge slab avalanches on the north slope of the south side of the valley. Nice climb but I'd like to come back and tag the other two peaks of Daniel.
Finally it reaches over 80 degrees in the North West this summer today, unfortunately it was when I was climbing this mountain. But non the less I had a great time with clear views.
With my brother.