Climbed the big northwest gully. We had 1500' feet of snow climbing leading to the fun class 4 summit ridge. Had to take cover from the weather several times along the way. This peak would be the featured attraction just about anywhere else, but is overshadowed by Gannett. Trip Report
Climbed the huge couloir on Helen's northwest face. 1700 feet of continuous snow made for a very efficient ascent. From the col at 13,100 ft it was a fun scramble up the rugged east ridge which was surprisingly narrow in places. Great summit, unsurpassed views of Titcomb Basin.
First half of the climb was a fun simul climb (climbed with bthere). I thought the upper section was a little more difficult than 5.7 (and I was following) but in all fairness it is way up there. The descent was brutal and scary. It felt like we did 20 rappels, although we probably didn't do that much. The downclimb was sketchy and I still don't know if we descended the right route.
What an incredible route! We simul climbed up to the last few pitches. The 5.7 handcrack seemed hard sucking wind at 13k. I wish I had known the best descent before hand, too!