I went up on Monday (7/11) and the conditions are great in the mornings, but as soon as the sun starts shining ice started to come loose. There are long snowfall trails coming down from the Pearly Gates route. And the Bergschrund has opened up to cover the majority of the lower route.
The Old Chute route is still in great condition, with ice holding snowpack and allowing easy kick steps. We didn't stop for long at the summit because the winds started picking up.
Camped just outside the ski area and made the summit around 7:30am after leaving at about 2am. Good firm snow and a lot of it made for a pretty straightforward ascent.
Took a friend up the pedestrian Old Crater Variation. The climbing up top in the chute was fun, although the route was tracked out the whole way. Abysmal weather (wet, cold, and cloudy). We only saw two other climbers on the peak the entire day; they had set up a camp and were doing the route in two days, complete with legitimate Chouinard and Frost laminated bamboo piolets!
Fun trip and 2nd trip to Hood this year! Unfortunately I had to turn around due to my partner hitting the wall hard at Devil's Kitchen. No hard feelings towards him though, 5 summits out of 6 ain't bad. Next year he agreed to accompany me again and we'll take 2 days. Even though we didn't make it, no regrets!
Took the Pearly Gates route while everyone else seemed to be taking the old crater variation. The gates were in perfect condition. There were not many people on the mountain that day. Climbed with SP’er Chuck(aka I like it on top).
Nice climb on a Tuesday, only 4 other parties on the mountain, summit to ourselves!
Summited with best friends, Perry, Troy, and Stanislav for the 2011 Cops on Top Summit for Heroes event. We will never forget. Absolutely perfect weather. I had an incredible time.
Great climbing with ya!
Summitted Hood after leaving Rainier a day early due to bad weather. Nice little bonus on that trip. Went up Old Chute. Smelly and crunchy - fantastic weather and views. Can't wait to do again and beat my time.
Perfect blue skies with views of Ranier & St. Helens. A great experience for my first Cascade climb.
A 1 am start assured that we'd beat the crowds up the Hogsback and Pearly Gates. The sun came up on a Crystal clear day with bright blue skys. The sulpher fumeroles started to make me nauseous but the wind shifted and spared me any real discomfort. Had a nice ice scramble near the top of the "gates" and we had the summit to ourselves with fantastic views of Rainier, St Helen's, Adams, Jefferson and more. I was able to do several glissades, totalling about 1200 feet of elevation loss on the way down, adding to the fun. Topping everything off, Ralph Lauren was doing a photo shoot for their 2012 winter clothing line so there were many beautiful models hanging around the lodge, the Bruins won the title, and we were successful in climbing Mt Baker also!
Drove out from CO to climb Hood and Rainier. Warmed up with Mt. Hood on June 10th and climbed a variation of the old chute. The clouds came down below the summit ridge and cleared as we summited. It was nice to have the place all to ourselves. The next day we drove to Mt. Rainier and started up the Emmons glacier. We planned on staying at Emmons Flats but ended up staying at Schurman due to a blizzard/whiteout. After all parties but one peaced out due to weather we stayed another day and summited on June 14th on a beautiful but windy day. What a trip!
Climbed via the Old Chute route due to the Hogsback being pretty far west (all but two groups used this route on the day we summitted). Went later in the day when snow was softer and footsteps were plentiful (no crampons...bring crampons). Overall, my buddy and myself got; our first state highpoint, badly sunburned, and learned a lesson about ascending on ice slops without crampons.
I can't remember what we did on Mt Hood but I'm sure we did not climb the mountain. I think we drove up to some higher elevation and did a trail around the mountain. Don't remember anything strenuous - but I do remember the beautiful photos and the amazing summer wild flowers! Should go back and climb the mountain! :)
Couldn't have asked for a better day! The mostly full moon made the Palmer much less monotonous. The boot track was good apart from the final push up the Old Chute. I failed to solo it last year, so this was a good one to get!
Started out on Leuthold, but bad weather turned us back up standard route. Nice, but short day to the top.
Standard route with two friends
Three hours 45 minutes from base to summit
Perfect day on Hood. Can't wait to get back there with skis.