Inverted temps led to horrible climbing conditions with rock and ice fall. Watched a guy slide/rag doll about 500 feet down the old chute. Turned around after that.
Up & down Old Chute. Solo. Lots of others around though.
Up Pearly Gates, down Old Chute. Second ascent.
Great climb! Can't wait to do it again!
My girlfriend (Lacey) and I were the only 2 people attempting the summit on this day. I think I have a knack for attempting peaks during times when you're not recommended to. And after the last lifthouse at 8800', we didn't see a single soul until we returned to that elevation, where Timberline had opened the ski resort for some early season skiing. We started at the Timberline lodge around 8:30 am, ignoring the threat of rockfall during late morning starts via the Pearly Gates. The snow was extremely icy until we reached the lifthouse at 8800'. Then above the groomed run, we were able to find some windblown snow on which we could get some footing. At Crater Rock, we decided to head to the right around the smoking cauldrons, to avoid getting the steam blown towards us. And instead of heading up the Hogsback, we went up the bowl well to the right. The bridge between the Hogsback, and the Pearly Gates was non-existent, and a gap of 100' or so made us feel glad we didn't attempt the Hogsback. Once in the chute up to the Pearly Gates, pebbles began flying down the chute at us, like bullets shot from a fortress above. One hit the back of her hand, and another hit me in the finger. Luckily we had gloves on to lessen impact. But helmets are a good idea to avoid getting hit in the head by these pebbles. The Pearly Gates were so icy, and there were moments I was scared for our lives. We didn't have crampons, or ice axes. This was the hike that officially committed me to investing in this necessary equipment. I had a legitimate scare, where I slipped backwards, and avoided slamming into my girlfriend, and sending us both falling over the edge of the section of Pearly Gates that we had just come up, by centimeters. The summit was beautiful though. We managed to make it to the top in 5 hours. And then flew down the mountain in 2 1/2 hours, just as the ski patrol was making their final sweep of the mountain. Was a great day!
Made the climb with my two brothers. Whiteout conditions on the descent. Followed a compass bearing to get back to the lodge.
We had perfect weather. STarted up the route from the lodge at 12 am. We ascended the SW route and bypassed the pearly gates due to chock ice. The bergschrund was wide open on the top of the route
Beautiful day but dicey descent. We had to ascend up and down the "Old Chute" rather than the "Pearly Gates". Thanks to my climbing partner, Kevin, we made it.
Old Chute Route. Solo. Clear conditions, no wind, moderate temperatures, compact snow. All things fell in place.
Climbed the Wy' East Route. Required 3 pitches over steep snow sections of about 50-55 degrees. Anchors were build snow stake and T-slots. I would recommend taking the snow cat to 8,000 ft and also renting skis and stashing them in the AM at 8,000 feet in order to ski back down to the base rather than spend another 1-2 hours hiking down the ski slopes.
Two of us left Timberline Lodge about 7am and hit summit about noon. Was a mix of snow and rocky sand till about Crater Rock. Cut around behind crater rock and used crampons the rest the way up. Coming down middle of the day snow was soft and could glissade or ski on boots.
Climbing on a Monday we only saw two other people coming down as we were heading up. Great weather for the climb and beautiful views.
Went up the Old Chute/South side route for the first time solo on the 29th. Left the parking lot around 5 am and was on the summit by 930. Started to cloud in really heavy around Crater Rock, but I followed one last climber going up in a bright yellow shirt. Snow was soft and slushy pretty much the whole time up, didn't put my crampons on until the summit ridge. Went back the next week on the 6th to go up with my girlfriend, this time we got out of the parking lot around 230am and summited around 8 a.m. A little bit icier that time, used crampons the whole way from the ski area back down to crater rock...exciting glissades on the way down. All in all a classic day climb close to Portland!
Awesome Day! Beautiful weather. Camped above Palmer and started toward the summit at 4:30am. Reached the top about 6:15am. Loved the last bit of the snow climb!
Another great climbing during what is considered late-season on the south side routes. Started at 1:30am, seemingly behind the majority of climbers, but we quickly caught up and topped out in the middle of the pack. We headed off the summit rim just as the sun was starting to break over to the south rim wall. We could hear and see ice and rocks starting to break-off from the sun, but we pasted at least a dozen climbers still heading up (no amount of warning was able to deter any of them...).
Great climb. Great weather. We sterted at 3am and reached the summit at 9. The snow conditions were terrible on the descent approaching the ski area. I would recommend skis.
Went up the hogsback on a beautiful clear night. Reports of blue ice in the Pearly Gates had a bunch of people going up the Old Chute instead, but we opted for the less crowded route. Snow conditions there were actually fine - just one very short bit with harder, more brittle ice.
Conditions at the bottom (coming back down) were properly miserable. I'd rather take the Cat back to the bottom than the other way around. Maybe next time, I'll take skis for the easier descent.
All in all, gorgeous day! Conditions still pretty good!
Good group, good weather, good climb. Opted not to rope. Seemed like it was about half and half, roped or unroped for folks on the mountain.
Great day, great conditions, great company...
A good, safe summit. The snow conditions were good. The Bergschrund was not an issue (we crossed under it and to the left) as we climbed via the West Crater Variation (Pearly Gates are not connected directly to the Hogsback this year). The only difficulty was the fact that the wind never really let up. It was actually a non-stop howling. Not cold or wet, just constant wind.
The other thing worth noting... I counted 45 people above the Hogsback but below the Summit at 6:30 am. It sounds like a lot of people but the WCV allows people to spread out a bit. There are two exit chutes and the airy ridge so people can reach the summit area in a few different ways once above the height of the Bergschrund.
At long last the weather, my schedule, and my climbing buddy's schedule came together to allow this climb. We had perfect condtions and no crowds (I counted all of 8 climbers on the mountain). Many thanks to my friend Karl Helser for getting me up (and, more importantly, down) the mountain in one piece!