Temperature was in the mid-20s, but with no wind and high altitude solar radiation it was the hottest day I've experienced on Mt. Hood. The bergschrund was almost closed and bridged across the middle. In the winter you should approach the Hogsback by heading straight for Crater Rock and staying as close to the rime-encrusted rock as possible. Don't cross the avalanche prone slope between Devils Kitchen and Crater Rock like you would in late spring/summer.
First trip to the summit. Left he parking lot at 6:15am and had a easy hike to just below Crater Rock. Meet three climbers from Portland who were postholing up to the Hogsback. Thanks guys for the steps. Continued climbing with this group (gave me a chance to payback some of their hard work) over the bergshrund and thru the pearly gates. We were the first to the summit. Clouds were thick but the wind wasn't terrible. Pictures of an untracked summit are great but guess the view will have to wait until another day. Climbed back down and was home in Camas by early afternoon. Awesome day for a climb.
Very late in the season - icy and loose rock in Pearly Gates (or whatever you call that gully above the bergshrung) - it was very stupid from me not to wear a helmet...
Reached the summit in driving rain and ice. I hear the view is nice, so I'll be back. Hopefully next time to try Cooper's Spur.
Great trip, perfect weather!
Started about 11:45 at night to try to avoid any crowds. Nasty weather through 9000 feet.
My first mountain! Starting at 12:20 AM with my brother David and friends John, Rob and Scott we summited 5 hours, 40 minutes later and were greated with clear skies and light winds. I grew up in Portland so I had been looking out at this mountain all my life. Finally got to the top.
I've climbed this peak at least another 12 times since '79 - (The most recent on June 9th, 2006) every trip memorable!
Did Hood as a two-day climb. Started from the Timberline Lodge parking lot about noon on the 22nd. Dreary conditions at 6000 ft. It had been drizzling / snowing off and on for two days. At the start of our climb it still cool (40's), but it had cleared a bit to offer intermittent views of the summit through the clouds.
We hiked up to above the Palmer lift, and set up camp near the twin rocks around 9000 feet. Now we were above the clouds and in brilliant sunshine, and the summit was in full view. We awoke about 3:00 AM on the 23rd and gathered together our climbing party. We roped up at the hogsback, did an end-run around the Bergschrund, and reached the summit about 8:00 AM. Was part of the summit ash-scattering cermony for Highpoint Club founder Jack Longacre. In all, a great climb with a great group of climbers.
Went with Timberline Mt. Guides. Great, professional guides. Had a lot of fun and learned a ton. Unfortunately, a women in another group unclipped from her rope and fell to her death 15 minutes after we left the summit. Very sad end to a great climb.
Started at the parking lot on the 22nd in wind rain and fog. Camped near the top of Palmer. Met up with a group of friends that were there to spread Jack's ashes the next day. We left the camp on the 23rd around 3:00 a.m.; hit the summit around 5:30 a.m.
Had perfect weather on top, light wind, clear but a little cold. Couldn't get the kite to fly with the lack of wind. Started down and met the ash folks on the Hogs back. Glissaded most of the way to the bottom of Palmer lift.
My first mountaineering summit. We left the parking lot at around 1:30 am, make it to the summit at around 8:30 am, and got back to the parking lot at around 12:30 pm. The climb was fairly straight forward, rock falls were the biggest danger. When climbing Pearly Gates I was hit by a rock roughly the size of a daypack rolling down from above, luckily I was able to deflect it with my ice axe. Helmets are highly recommended, we put ours on before Hogsback.
Great climb but had to turn back around 10,200 because of the rockfall. The route took much longer than the 4-6 hours it was suppposed to take. I will be back someday to make the summit.
Partners: Tedd Rupp, ?
Camped in Illumination Saddle. Great alternative to Standard (Hogsback) route-- people were standing in line on the other side of the crater, while we just buzzed up. Passing from shadow & cold under the Pearly Gates, into the brilliant sunshine of the summit was amazing! Summit was hot. ~100 climbers on top by 8:00 am.
I climbed with two old friends and one new one. We took the lifts up at 7:00 AM as far as they would go. We did not rope up for this climb. We watched each other closely as we went around the Burcherond. Ice ax and trecking poles are a must. The footing going through the pearly gates was trecherious. Great weather and very few other climbers on the Mountain that day. Well worth the effort. What a great view
Started walking at 2:00am from the skier parking lot. By the bergschrund, I didn't see the boot track (which I saw on the way down), so I climbed 10 feet of nearly vertical ice/snow on the farthest left part of the bergschrund and got onto some rotten loose rock. I basically digged my fingers on the hard dirt to get a hold on my left hand while I swung my ice axe with my right hand. The left chute on the Pearly Gates was a bit icy (crampons were useful in this section). Anyway, I reached the summit at 6:40am. Sunny, but windy at the summit. Stayed there for a whole 40 minutes. While at the summit, I met Alex (a climber from Montana, who came up via the Cooper Spur route and asked me for a ride back to the Tilly Jane trailhead/campground since I told him I was heading towards Mt Adams next and it was on the way). We both left the summit at 7:20am and were back to my car at 9:00am. I then dropped Alex off at his car on Tilly Jane campground.
It was very warm and the snowfield was very slushy around 12:30am when we departed. We were worried that is may be too warm for a safe summit without rockfall. We actually thought we would turnaround 1/2 way up, but instead the snow firmed up and the temperature dropped. As we ascended to the Hogsback and up to the Pearly Gates, the existing ice axe placements were very firm and secure. We summited around 5 or 5:30am and need our glasses for the bright sunrise.
Hood cast an amazing summit pyramid. Amazing.
A relatively quiet day on the mountain. Beautiful weather and views. Long slog from Timberline, took about 6-hours. The "Berg" has opened up a lot, but an easy path around was well marked.
Part 2: 5/24/16 - Climbed/Skied Cooper Spur.
A weekday ascent with only a dozen or so other people on the route, not crowded at all. Perfect weather - no wind no clouds. Entire route is in good shape except the chute is drying out.
Sunrise from the summit again, but the visibility was worse than a week earlier. When I pulled out my digital camera at the summit I realized I had left the memory card at home. Doh! At least I took plenty of photos the week before. Snow was in even better condition, and crowds were reduced compared to the weekend.
Incredible views. That's all I have to say on this climb.