Mount Hood Climber's Log

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gcap

gcap - Jun 29, 2009 12:17 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

old chute  Sucess!

Late start, planned on just making the crater. Got to crater quickly, snow still solid, made summit. stuff started melting out on descent. Car-to-Car (timberline parking) in 5.5 hours. Great weather, great day.

damgaard

damgaard - Jun 19, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009

Old Chute  Sucess!

3,5 hours from Timberline up and 2 hours down. Weather was superb, sunny and no wind, and clouds only up to Timberline, so only Adams and the rest of the volcanoes were visible. Soloed old chute, where there were nice steps. Started at 2 am.

dirth

dirth - Jun 9, 2009 4:20 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Lazy Route  Sucess!

I took Timberline extending my spring pass for a few weeks to be a sign that I was meant to ride lifts up to 8600 feet... Summited around 11:30 and snowboarded down the west face of the crater. Really fun trip.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Jun 1, 2009 2:35 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Climbed a variation of the Hogsback route through the Pearly Gates. It involved 1 pitch of AI2. Well worth doing to avoid the Saturday crowd.

gwave47

gwave47 - May 30, 2009 9:59 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Great Snow  Sucess!

Great Snow... good bit of traffic, but still very enjoyable.

Bruce Christensen

Bruce Christensen - May 29, 2009 12:42 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2009

Hogsback crawling with ants  Sucess!

Summitted yesterday a bit before 5:30 a.m. on the SS Hogsback route. We were the first ones up there, other than a solo climber. Definitely not the last, though—we counted 75 people at one point!

Most people were taking the main Old Chute route. We headed left from the Hogsback and hugged the cliffs, taking the 2 o'clock (first, climber's rightmost) couloir to the summit ridge. I probably wouldn't recommend that, though, due to risk of ice/rockfall.

Not much ice was falling when we went up, other than small, harmless crystals, but we were up there early. We crossed a couple places were there was a constant flow of small ice crystals coming down.

Safest route right now is to head left (west) immediately after reaching the top of the Hogsback, then cross the bare rock near the fumaroles, then up the Old Chute. That will keep you out of the way of most ice/rockfall.

junoiceclimber

junoiceclimber - May 19, 2009 12:06 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2009

1, 2, 3... Stay on your feet  Sucess!

Three people were injured and two took major slides on consecutive days on this weekend. Two of the three made the paper as airlift rescues and the last one walked away from the Hogsback under his own power.

One person was hit by falling ice suffered substantial leg injuries rendering her incapable of walking away from the Cathedral Rock area. Another guy slipped, shot 500 ft out of the Devil's Kitchen, and sustained serious facial, wrist, and leg injuries. Lastly a climber, just five minutes behind me was knocked off his feet by a careening dinner plate and slid, unharmed, 200 ft back down to the start of the Hogsback. Witnessing this incident occur, 14 climbers turned around to descend.

Without knowing that such drama was happening, I witnessed an ice wheel go zinging down the mountain just meters away, and then, seconds later, took a baseball size chunk of ice in the chin and mouth, thinking it broke several of my front teeth. I (literally) poured on the speed to get up and out of the gully to reach the safety of the summit ridge.

The summit was amazing, not a cloud in the sky. All the big Cascades were visible, including Shasta!! To top it all off, I had good cell coverage and called my wife back in Juneau with a wake up call.

On the descent, I moved quick to get down without incident. I descended the Old Chute in a face first clipity clop and literally ran the traverse to reach the Hogsback without incident.

oso1212

oso1212 - May 18, 2009 5:34 pm Date Climbed: May 17, 2009

Sandy Glacier Headwall  Sucess!

We started at 2:00am from Illumination Saddle and descended Reid Glacier then up and over Yokum at around 7800 ft. Went up the headwall while attempting to dodge ice and summited around 10am.

bfrench

bfrench - Apr 28, 2009 12:23 am Date Climbed: May 25, 2007

Birthday Solo  Sucess!

Climbed solo on my birthday. 2 hours 15 minutes from Timberline. Skied old chute and made it to Seattle by noon.

EastKing

EastKing - Apr 25, 2009 2:33 am Date Climbed: May 29, 2009

Hogsback-Old Chute  Sucess!

Done deal. But I will go back many more times. What a beautiful climb! See both on April and May TR's

bruceg

bruceg - Apr 24, 2009 8:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1997

South Side  Sucess!

Climbed with Timberline Mountain Guides. Summited at 6 am in a cloudbank. I have heard that the view is great.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Apr 20, 2009 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009

1st Attempt

Craig and Greg and I set out at 10pm and made it to the Hogsback by 4am. Craig having been on the summit twice was fully prepared to continue on. Greg and I dizzy from altitude sickness and sulfur dioxide fumes decided to turn around. I thought we could probably make it up the chute in our condition but it would have been an unnecessary risk coming down.

UPDATE: My second attempt was successful via the Leuthold Couloir, December 4th, 2011

lalpinist

lalpinist - Apr 20, 2009 5:37 pm Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009

Perfect Conditions  Sucess!

Very nice conditions (clear, warm, mild wind an not as crowded as other times I've been). The Pearly Gats are still iced up; the Old Chute route that is stomped out went a little bit West of where I remember, making a bit of an exposed stretch to the true summit. The (half) moon when it first rose was so orange, it looked like mars.

deungsan

deungsan - Mar 28, 2009 6:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008

finally got to Hood

Partner Tony and I did the normal route. Fairly straightforward.

Good time all around.

NCclimber

NCclimber - Mar 15, 2009 5:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2007

Lucked out

Barely got to the summit before being chased back down by a storm. Great intro on glacier climbs. Climbed with WoundedKnee and Timberline.

skydiver777

skydiver777 - Mar 5, 2009 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2008

The first of three  Sucess!

Two friends and I set out to climb 3 peaks in one week. Mt Hood, the first, we used to warm up for Mt. Adams. the first day we climbed up to the Devils Kitchen,(p.u. sulpher) set up camp and reviewed rescues. In the morning we got up to make a short climb to the summit. Beautiful clear weather. We could see 200 miles in each direction. Climbing down sucked seeing all those skiers, and I didn't have my skis. Onto Mt. Adams

farrisgl

farrisgl - Mar 3, 2009 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2002

Camped out above ski lift

Two of my French business colleagues Joel and Luc climbed up from timberline lodge early afternoon on Saturday and camped out about a 1/4 mile or so above the top of the upper ski lift. Really nice weather and an enjoyable evening apart from the sound of the ski slope grooming equipment backup alarms active until almost midnight.
We were up with the crunch, crunch, crunch of other climbers walking past our tents and heading toward the summit. Very busy morning as we climbed above the bergschrund and through Pearly Gates ice chute. The number of people, and poor climbing techniques would have made this really dangerous if not for the fairly soft snow conditions. My friend Luc, a very experienced French mountaineer, couldn’t contain himself with 3 groups, asking “do you guys know what you are doing?” These dangerous climbing practices taking place just a few weeks after the multiple fatalities in exactly the same place.
We reached the summit at first light providing a truly amazing site. On the summit was a very intricate snow cave complete with a window out the steep North Slope.
Are decent was marred with more questionable climbing parties including a group of 3 roped together equality dividing a 60 meter rope with the climber in the middle. We took our time on the descent enjoying the spectacular setting.
This is a really great summit; however it was sobering to think of the three deaths as we passed the 'shrund just a few weeks before.

mthomas

mthomas - Mar 1, 2009 11:39 am Date Climbed: May 31, 2004

Hogsback  Sucess!

Solo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt on Rainier. Winter wonderland!

larryN

larryN - Feb 11, 2009 11:42 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2008

South Side Old Chute route  Sucess!

This is the easiest way to the summit when the Hogsback moves too far left of the Pearly Gates.
We climbed through the fumaroles to avoid ice falling across the standard traverse on a warm day.

Jakester

Jakester - Feb 3, 2009 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2009

South Side

A 2am start in snowy conditions turned into a full on blizzard at 4am. Four of us skied down at 6am (from 9,100ft) without regret. The other four continued and eventually broke through the clouds at the Hogs-back (swine-spine). Steep ice with wind-packed snow over it created avalanche danger so they turned around 300ft short of the summit. Fun trip though.

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