Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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wmolland - Aug 12, 2020 7:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2020

SW to NE   Sucess!

We went up and down the standard SW slope to NE face route with one rappel (just long enough with a 60m rope) from the normal rappel station on the way down. A day I will never forget.


CWessels - Jun 28, 2018 1:01 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2018

SW slope & NW face  Sucess!

I soloed this, and didn't bring any rope to rappel. I will say I regretted that decision. This makes for a great solo climb (up), but downclimbing it is a bear.


gordonye - Sep 5, 2017 2:23 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2017

East Ridge

Mike Chen and I started from Lake 10960' to climb the East Ridge. After a hailstorm we made it up the 3rd class section below the head wall. There was a lie back pitch up the head wall that I thought was part of the standard East Arete route but looked stiffer than 5.5. Later I realized that according to Cameron and Burns' book this wasn't the easiest way up the head wall, rather a hand crack to the left around the corner was. A party from Southern California (Brandon? and James) were ahead of us and descended the head wall via the hand crack, but it was late so we decided to turn around in order to find the descent route back to camp while there is still daylight.


CameronGround - Jul 12, 2016 1:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2016

Full East Arete  Sucess!

Solo climb starting from the 12241 peaklet saddle.. A lot of sand/scree on the approach, but as advertised there is a ton of fun 3rd/4th class scrambling and a few spots of required low 5th climbing, so worth the price of admission. Which is saying a lot in my case, having hoofed it up the road from 6500ft at the buttermilks after wimping out on the heavily rutted road in my low clearance sedan. Didn't do all of that C2C though, camped night before summit day at lake 10960+ which was very nice apart from the wind gusts.

The climbing is particularly nice as you can stay right on the crest the vast majority of the way without much difficulty. Walking the knife-sidewalk was really fun. I rapped once on the way up, the 10-15' 5.7 downclimb along the ridge shortly after peak 13151, and then the two main 5th class sections on the way down (summit headwall, and upper ridge a bit below the summit plateau). After downclimbing to the notch west of the 13200+ subpeak, descended the mostly dry chute to the talus field at the base of the massive SE face. Another party was behind me on the route, and seeing them at the very top of the face from the talus field gave an impressive sense of scale, beyond having just descended all that way.

And as a side note the wildflowers were blooming out of control from about 9500ft at the end of the road to the end of major vegetation around 11000ft. To the point of the smell being sickeningly sweet at times. Purple lupine was the most dominant with thick carpets in many places, but also a lot of red/orange indian paintbrush and clumps of smaller white and yellow flowers. And of course some sky pilots up on the route itself. Good year for flowers in CA between this show and the one in Death Valley earlier in the year.


apachedino - Jul 13, 2015 2:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2011

Airy!  Sucess!

Airy! Gets a bit scary for the downclimb after passing all those pitons! Lots of snow made the couliors a breeze.


BobD3 - Oct 19, 2014 8:20 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2014

SW slope/ NW ridge  Sucess!

Free climbed it solo on a perfect weather day. An unforgettable experience to say the least.


bennovak - Jul 13, 2014 6:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2014

Hutchinson Route  Sucess!

One day trip with Kurt from SMI. Incredible climb, incredible view, awesome guide. We made the summit before the weather and were back in town in time for dinner.


youngclimer123 - Nov 11, 2013 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013

a long day  Sucess!

took the standard route, 14hours from the basin to summit and back


blueshade - Aug 25, 2013 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

std SW to top  Sucess!

Pretty easy trail and cross country approach. Gully has 2 cruxy C4 spots. C4 going up was fun. Chose to downclimb on climber's L rather than R on the way down. Fun route.


DukeJH - Aug 19, 2013 1:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2013

SW Slope to NE Face  Sucess!

Part of the Sierra Challenge for 2013. The chute was a loose mess but worth it to get to the Class 3-4 above the notch.


Deb - Jul 8, 2013 10:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

SW Slope to NE Face  Sucess!

With Kathy and Norma - took the chockstone chute and stayed on rock as much as possible. I found the chute very pleasant that way. Climb from notch was the best! Class 4 sections too short :( but most enjoyable. We rapped from each rap station for sake of time and safety. Of the 24 mtns I've climbed this year, THIS is my fave!


cab - Jun 10, 2013 11:38 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2013

Southwest Slope  Sucess!

Great climb! A 60m rope for rappeling would have been better than the 30m we carried even though there was an intermediate rappel station already set up (the second rap station ran the rope over a semi-sharp rock). No rope necessary for the climb up.


TheNobleSunfish - Oct 1, 2012 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2012

SE Slope / SW Face  Sucess!

Lots of loose junk on the approach, but otherwise beautiful!

Say yes to crack

Say yes to crack - Jun 18, 2012 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

Finally  Sucess!

Finally, one of the best summit views around.
Summer is much better than trying it several times in the winter


Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:41 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012

Great route!  Sucess!

With Sierra Mountaineering Group, climbed E. Arete from Longley Reservoir, taking the alternate start up the snow couloir to the notch just below the peaklet. Ascended the standard route from there to summit and descended the North Couloir. Excellent rock, not too hard, summit pitch was the most fun.


bc44caesar - Aug 20, 2011 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011

East Arete  Sucess!

Climbed Peaklet from the east (unpleasant scree), then attempted to traverse the entire ridge to Humphreys. Stopped at two prominent towers, which would've required a 5th class downclimb harder than I cared to try. Had to retrace my steps a bit, downclimb, then make a long scree traverse to the saddle. Climbed the East Arete mostly on the crest, then took the gully between Humphreys and the prominent tower down. A little over 5 hrs to the summit from the car, maybe a bit under 3 hrs from the saddle to the summit. Ok route, not that classic though.


dshoshone - Aug 13, 2011 11:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011

East Ridge  Sucess!

Full East Ridge

Trip Report:


mengbo - Aug 11, 2011 3:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

East Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed with Jean and Nate. Unforgettable experience.


mrchad9 - Aug 1, 2011 1:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Southwest Chute  Sucess!

An excellent solo trip up the southwest chutes and NW face. Near the chockstone I cut left and went up the next chute/ridge over. Fairly solid footing and even some good class 3 climbing up to the notch, then the highlights from there to the summit. Somewhat sunny on top but started hailing on the way down.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011

Mount Humphreys  Sucess!

Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.

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