With Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line
Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.
Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.
Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.
Great summit, fun 4th class route
I really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy.
Great climb! Very thrilling. Thanks, Sean.
100th anniversary climb
Did day hike via SW Slope/NW Face. Very nice scrambling up from the little notch about 600 feet below the summit. But didn't care for the loose scree chutes below the notch.
Alternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Good: took the middle of 3 main chutes to do more class 3 and less scree slogging. Bad: traversed too far right on final class 4 ridge, wasting time.
Topped out on the couloir for a snowboard descent. Mountaineering boots in snowboard bindings = bad decisions. Decided against climbing to the summit to bag it, as we planned to summit the next day VIA the East Arete. I got injured on the way down and that never occurred. Will be back to get this one FOR SURE.
This one got away. Climbing with Carter and a friend of hers. Going up to the first notch, we were fanned out across the width of the slope but at various levels of vertical. Friend, in the lead above, dislodged a small rock which sped toward Carter at warp speed. It missed her head but knicked her hand. We continued up to the notch, where Carter decided she had had enough. Friend and I continued, soon breaking out the rope. I led up some fourth or easy fifth class to a large belay "ledge" and was belaying Friend up when I shifted my weight a bit and the whole massive ledge rocked! It was one enormous loose, flat boulder. I shouted down to friend to reverse course and we beat a hasty retreat, tails between legs.
Good class 3-4 from @13,400 to summit.
Up the normal route and down somewhere on the west face. Solo day hike from North Lake.
Climbed the East Ridge with Tony & Jim under cloudy skies. Luckily we didn't get any rain. A superb route. C2C in 11 hours
Climbed with Dave S. and Seth V.. Super fun!
very cool trip with dave and the grund...got a flat tire on the approach road... which
tore the hell out of daves' subie... ..great weather and route.. grund and i soloed to
the summit... dave waited below for us.. fun climbin..
Started in the Bob Burd chute, exited to the left at the chock stone and climbed the face all the way the notch. This route avoided all the loose crap and did not exceed class 3. The NW Face was pretty straight forward. On the second class 4 section the variation right around the corner seemed easier to me. Finished it with a swim in upper Humphreys Lake.