ljwoodw - Jul 26, 2021 11:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2021
Up from 10,353', down to Pioneer Basin
Planned to drop our packs at Huntington Col, summit, then hike down to Pioneer Basin. There were numerous possibilities for gaining the ridge from the northeast, and I think we missed the col and instead landed somewhere on the ridge closer to the peak (we were still able to descend to Pioneer Basin on Class 3 rock and a gully). Ridge scramble was delightful.
Deb - Jul 20, 2021 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2021
Fine fine ridge scramble!
Took on some of the east face by staying on Class 3-4 blocks into gulley then rode the NE ridge. Staying on ridge proper gave opportunities for Class 5 moves. Terrific climb and quick heel glissade down.
This was a pretty good scramble with many, many different route options. I don't remember anything particularly remarkable about it - pretty standard stuff. I tried to traverse the Sierra Crest from here to Mt. Stanford and, uh..., it's definitely not class 3 as reported in Secor and elsewhere. I suppose it could be class 3 if you traverse far beneath the Crest on the southwest side (climber's left), but even then you have to get around some huge and very steep ribs. It is impossible beyond a certain point to stay on the Crest itself and keep the climbing to class 3. And it's crazy exposed. Trust me.
I ended up retreating from an immense notch immediately west of the unnamed tarn above Stanford Lake and then bailed at the junction between the Crest and the SW Ridge of Hilton Peak, which I then climbed. I descended the SE slopes of Hilton Peak to the drainage that feeds Lake 10353, then made my way back to camp at the long lake at the western base of Patricia Peak. The loop/traverse from camp (up Huntington, along the Crest over to Hilton Peak, back to camp) took 13.5 hours. Much time was wasted on the horribly confused and curseworthy attempt to find a class 3 route on the Crest to Stanford.
Donno - Nov 20, 2018 9:14 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2018
231 Club
7.5 r/t from Lake 10,353 with Rahil, Peter and Rahil: combined ages: 231 !
Ascended loose, steep, shitty East Face right to the summit blocks, then down the NNE chute.
jdmorehouse - Sep 1, 2016 4:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2016
North East Ridge
Hiked to lake 10,353', then headed up and left to a steep, loose chute to the summit ridge. The ridge consists of one rocky pinnacle after another, so staying right on its crest is not possible. A class 3 traverse at best. I descended a loose, sandy chute below the summit block and eventually intersected my ascent route. Trip came in at about 14 miles.
Bob Burd - Sep 7, 2008 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2005
South Ridge / West Face
Combined with Mt. Crocker for a fun day. The West Face descent was particularly spicy. Trip Report
PrestonRhea - Sep 4, 2008 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2008
North Face and Northwest Ridge
Climbed during a wind advisory and were hitting gusts of up to 45mph on the summit. Decided against making the class 3 traverse to Standford due to time and the strong winds. A real slog of a climb though with the wind.
ljwoodw - Jul 26, 2021 11:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2021
Up from 10,353', down to Pioneer BasinPlanned to drop our packs at Huntington Col, summit, then hike down to Pioneer Basin. There were numerous possibilities for gaining the ridge from the northeast, and I think we missed the col and instead landed somewhere on the ridge closer to the peak (we were still able to descend to Pioneer Basin on Class 3 rock and a gully). Ridge scramble was delightful.
Deb - Jul 20, 2021 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2021
Fine fine ridge scramble!Took on some of the east face by staying on Class 3-4 blocks into gulley then rode the NE ridge. Staying on ridge proper gave opportunities for Class 5 moves. Terrific climb and quick heel glissade down.
CWessels - Jul 17, 2019 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2019
East Face to NE RidgeThis was a pretty good scramble with many, many different route options. I don't remember anything particularly remarkable about it - pretty standard stuff. I tried to traverse the Sierra Crest from here to Mt. Stanford and, uh..., it's definitely not class 3 as reported in Secor and elsewhere. I suppose it could be class 3 if you traverse far beneath the Crest on the southwest side (climber's left), but even then you have to get around some huge and very steep ribs. It is impossible beyond a certain point to stay on the Crest itself and keep the climbing to class 3. And it's crazy exposed. Trust me.
I ended up retreating from an immense notch immediately west of the unnamed tarn above Stanford Lake and then bailed at the junction between the Crest and the SW Ridge of Hilton Peak, which I then climbed. I descended the SE slopes of Hilton Peak to the drainage that feeds Lake 10353, then made my way back to camp at the long lake at the western base of Patricia Peak. The loop/traverse from camp (up Huntington, along the Crest over to Hilton Peak, back to camp) took 13.5 hours. Much time was wasted on the horribly confused and curseworthy attempt to find a class 3 route on the Crest to Stanford.
Donno - Nov 20, 2018 9:14 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2018
231 Club7.5 r/t from Lake 10,353 with Rahil, Peter and Rahil: combined ages: 231 !
Ascended loose, steep, shitty East Face right to the summit blocks, then down the NNE chute.
jdmorehouse - Sep 1, 2016 4:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2016
North East RidgeHiked to lake 10,353', then headed up and left to a steep, loose chute to the summit ridge. The ridge consists of one rocky pinnacle after another, so staying right on its crest is not possible. A class 3 traverse at best. I descended a loose, sandy chute below the summit block and eventually intersected my ascent route. Trip came in at about 14 miles.
Bob Burd - Sep 7, 2008 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2005
South Ridge / West FaceCombined with Mt. Crocker for a fun day. The West Face descent was particularly spicy. Trip Report
PrestonRhea - Sep 4, 2008 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2008
North Face and Northwest RidgeClimbed during a wind advisory and were hitting gusts of up to 45mph on the summit. Decided against making the class 3 traverse to Standford due to time and the strong winds. A real slog of a climb though with the wind.