Mount Jefferson Climber's Log

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endo.the.timber - May 16, 2015 1:18 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2015

JPG solo   Sucess!

white out and thick cloud the entire time past 8200. Took me bloody 13.5 hrs from Whitewater trail head. Did climb from car to car.


rmick25 - Feb 11, 2015 5:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2014

Southwest attempt

Traverse melted out for Fruitstripe. Sketchy

MarkSmith - Nov 2, 2014 10:30 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014

Turn around at Red Saddle

We left camp at 4:30am from the east end of Jefferson Park. We headed up a gully that was used by one in the party on a previous attempt. However, the snow petered out leaving us in a dangerous position on steep, loose dirt from a terminal moraine deposited long ago. By the time we made the traverse of Whitewater and worked up ugly scree to Red Saddle, we had reached our turn-around time of 12:00pm. Although it was a slightly below average snowfall year and a warmer than usual summer, a large section of the traverse was still in snow this late in the season. The first half of the snow field could be bypassed by a mote, but not the second half. Although the weather was perfect, we reluctantly turned back. Next time, we'll set a higher camp and get an earlier start.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Sep 9, 2014 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2014

FINALLY!  Sucess!

This was my fourth try on my nemesis, Mount Jefferson. We left the Pamelia Lake TH at midnight on the nose. Approached through Shale lake and went up the South Ridge. We made the Red Saddle at 6:30 just after the sun rose. The traverse was short, 200', and solid. In fact I probably could have placed screws in a couple of spots. However I only brought pickets. Placed 3 pickets and traversed with ease. After some confusing route finding we scrambled an easy class 4 summit block to the top. Had a rope so we rapped down. No need to protect the climb. back across the traverse and at the saddle by 10:00am. Returned the way we came.

23.5 Miles
7100' Elevation gain
16 Hours

Perfect day

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Aug 25, 2014 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2014

South Ridge  Sucess!

Led the snow traverse in trail runners

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - May 28, 2014 12:14 am Date Climbed: May 25, 2014

Bummer X2

Went Jeff Park this time. Saw a bunch of rime on the razor ridge so we traversed White Water then up to the Red Saddle. The traverse under the pinnacle wasn't bad, then headed over to the summit block to find some nasty rime so we turned around 150' from the top. Now I'm just getting pissed, I'll be back in a couple of weeks for try 3! Who knew Jeff takes 21000' of climbing to summit!


bedellympian - May 22, 2014 2:55 pm Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2014

winter solo  Sucess!

via Jeff Park Glacier, 5.5 hours camp-camp at base of glacier, descended North Milk Crk gully and traversed mod snow to top of Russell Glacier... excellent route, highly recommended


rick6003 - Sep 15, 2013 11:34 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013

Mt Jefferson , South Ridge  Sucess!

We climbed Mt. Jefferson from Coyote Lake, first time up this mountain but not my first try. We got rained out last year. The weather was perfect this time. We carried 2 ropes and a bit of gear. Protecting on the traverse was our main concern and my 70 Meter rope was long enough to cover it. One snow patch left to cross but it was very short. Main problem was loose and damp ground. Only one catch your breath when a large rock came loose on one of us and banged his shin pretty good.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013


Left the Pamelia Lake TH at 1:00am and arrived at the red saddle around 10:00am. It looked terrible, steep and melted out. We geared up anyways and headed down to the edge of the snow field. We lead out, on a horrific anchor, about half way. Then looking across the way all I could see was my three kids saying, "don't be a dork dad!" So we turned around 200 feet short. I hate posting failed attempts but it might help the next climber, so in short, it was a bad snow year and what little snow that was there was rotten. Thus, I'll be back in spring. BTW 15hrs, 7500 feet, a bear at 2:00am, and no summit, kinda sucks.


Darren9 - Jul 7, 2013 7:10 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2013

Jeff Park   Sucess!

With Sierra Mountaineering Group, we climbed the Jefferson Park glacier route with its famous knife-edge ridge crusted with rime ice and snow - it was an exhilirating and fun climb, well worth the effort. We opted not to ascend the final summit pinnacle owing to time, and descended the Russell Glacier which turned out to be a solid plan.

Dan Winter

Dan Winter - Sep 29, 2012 5:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

South Ridge  Sucess!

Fun climb with The MVP and Montana. The snow traverse was melted out and the we were able to skirt below this steep exposed area on the worst rock and scree imaginable. I was happy to have a rope and a few pieces of gear for the last bit. Familiarity with the route from a previous attempt and an early start from Shale lake were instrumental in our success.


nicozone - Aug 21, 2012 12:39 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012

The Longest Day  Sucess!

Started in from Woodpecker TH as a free-parking alternative to Pamelia Lakes TH (with the added bonus of another 7 miles rt). Hiked into a small snow-melt lake on the flats just north of Goat Peak on Saturday. Left at 1:40am on Sunday, and made the top by 8:30am using the South Ridge to Red Saddle, making the west face traverse to the North Ridge and up the scramble to the summit. Such a long tedious day on the return to the TH. I had blisters and sore feet just from the return hike.

Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Aug 16, 2012 8:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2012

August 2012 glaciers - 2  Sucess!

After Glacier Peak we drove down to Oregon and climbed Jefferson, again great weather but this time we used full gear - crampons, axe, pickets, and rope. We camped in a small saddle just off the climber's trail, hiked up the ridge to the glacier and took that in a loop around to the south side, again climbed the ridge, traversed around the two steep snow slopes and then climbed up the rocky ridge from the north. Nice scramble up to the summit, Smiley did belay me up one steep spot just below the top. We returned the same way, hiked down to the shelter and camped near that on day 2, back to the car the next morning.


santanoni - Jan 12, 2012 10:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011

SW Ridge  Sucess!

There was still snow on the PCT above 5400 ft or so, even in August when I did it. I bivied at about 7800 ft next to a snow field. I did a S-SW ridge loop. The traverse was pretty hard ice, which was nice. The summit block was still iced up in spots.

Decent on the SW ridge was not fun - some of the worst scree and loose rock I have encountered. It was hard to stay on the ridge, and hard to traverse below it. I ended up scree skiing down into the drainage to the N.

Ted Eliason

Ted Eliason - Oct 12, 2011 12:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1995

Jeff Park Glacier Solo  Sucess!

Third time is the charm after finally heading left of the scary bergshrund at the top of the glacier.


amochka - Jun 27, 2011 8:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009

South Ridge   Sucess!

Good climb, great group. Trip up to Red Saddle tedious. Trip across traverse slightly anxiety-provoking, but great summit, nice conditions. Melted out pro on the way back across the traverse was super fun to deal with. Long day, tough climb but a blast..


e-doc - Jun 20, 2011 9:21 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2011

west rib

In via Pamelia Lake. Enormous avalanche debris in Milk Creek. Snowshoed up to about 6500'. Tons of snow this spring. Postholing and slow going on the West rib, bailed about 7800'. Headed down to the Sisters and bagged MS.


iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 5:12 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

Just as hard as it looks  Sucess!

This peak is just as hard as it looks - maybe harder. The first time we got weathered off by that fantastic orographic lift down there, but this time it was pretty straight forward. We all agreed to bring some rock-pro instead of free climbing the summit cone next time - that's quite the drop.


mansfieo - Dec 19, 2010 5:10 am

Great Climb with Dad  Sucess!

My dad is 59 and climbed the Whitewater Route like he was 30. Go dad!

jdkoziol - Oct 12, 2010 12:25 am Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010

Conditions Question

I am planning on climbing Jefferson this weekend. Has anyone climbed it recently? I was wondering if the red saddle had any snow.

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