Nice dayhike, although I felt crummy from a cold I was getting over. Calm and relatively warm on the w. summit. Tagged Carillon too.
East ridge is a great climb, and the exposure isn't as menacing as it would seem at first glance. There are maybe 2 or 3 spots where class 3 moves are required, but evern those aren't anything daunting for those with comfort with technical passages. Thunderstorm rolled in very suddenly and hit when we were 2 minutes from summit so we literally tagged it and left. Dropped as low as possible away from ridge on North Side to traverse back to saddle via some 5.4ish type moves. 13 hours car-to-car.
The ridge was the best part of the climb. However you try to get to it, it's a slog.
Fun route, much better than the Mountaineers Route up Whitney.
Take the Rockwell Variation!!! Do not follow the footsteps leading Northeast from Upper Boy Scout Lake (those were from people descending). You will be in for the most gravelly sandy climb of your life and if its slightly hot, you'll drain in no time and be on your hands and knees. This is a beautiful trek up the Whitney Mountaineers Route. ( However you may need a machete for the "riparian" sections).
Man, is this a cold route. It's in the shade when everything else, I mean everything except the 5 foot strip of arctic you are in, is sunny. 3 pitches of 5.9 in the dihedral if you belay at the logical two stances. Lots of ridge climbing to the summit.
Highly recommend this route. Nice Class III wall at the end. The weather was perfect. No wind and you could see forever.
Traverse from Mt. Carillon to Russell to Muir, and to Whitney. Finishing at Lower Boy Scout for a nice day hike!
We hiked up the NF to UBSL as a training hike for the MR on whitney the following day. Felt great and it was only 11 so we went up the East Ridge on Russell, summited by 2 and decended the last 200 feet of the ridge in a classic Sierra T-storm.
Sustained 3rd class climbing at it's best.
Awsome! Best non-technical climb I have ever done. Exposure was just enough to keep all senses on high alert. Climbing was always fun, with no real difficulty but enough challenge to keep it interesting (unlike other climbs that turn into nothing more than boring scree / talus hiking).
This was the most rewarding peak I've climbed so far. Did a solo dayhike. It looked intimidating and that's probably what made it so rewarding. It's not as bad as it looks and I never had to go over anything that exceeded class 3. I'll definitely be doing this one again some time.
Solo from trailhead. Roundtrip under 7hrs in 1998, and traverse to Whitney in 2000.
Another successful solo summit. Though I will have to admit the traverse made me a little nervous at times. The most exhilarating peak I've done to date, finished in 9 hours from the portal(blah).
Pretty awesome mountain. Left the portal at 12:30 am Summited at 8:40 am (I spent about 1 hr scrambling on Mt. Carillon), came down the South Face Right Side. From there I climbed Whitney and Muir. 3 peaks in one day on my 33rd birthday. What a party!
We had a great time climbing the airy east ridge. We downclimbed the South Slope, dropped to Iceberg Lake and had jaw-dropping views of Whitney and Keeler Needle.
Great climb! It definitely has been the most exposed route that I've done to date. I climbed this peak with Suet Fei Li and Joel Wilson as part of a trip with CHAOS.
I've gotta come back to try the Russell-Whitney Traverse that Bob Burd did in the '02 Sierra Challenge.
Ascent #1: Started from Whitney Portal @ 5.22. Got altitude sickness @ Upper Boy Scout Lake, but perservered until attaining true summit. Felt sick as a dog by this point, and veg'ed for an hour and a half. Made it back to parking lot by 21.20- long day. Trip report.
#2: Fishhook Arête with G-Town. Started route @ 9.38, summited at 16.48. An exceptional, superb, exhilirating climb up an amazing peak. Bomber rock, good pro', stimulating exposure! The ridge ends AT the summit (& the technical climbing maybe 15' below)! Can really fly up upper part of ridge as is not as sustained as lower part (most of the upper pitches I placed 3 pieces or less per pitch, & none on one of them). Did in 9 (or was it 10?) pitches to lessen rope drag. Awesome day on a great route with a good friend/climbing partner. There is nothing (required) harder on this route than 5.8.
#3. Traverse from 'Mt. Morgenson.' After starting from the Whitney Portal TH @ 6.14, summited Morgenson @ 10.24. Hung out on the summit for about 1/2 an hour, then followed Bob, Sean, & Rick as they made their way towards Russell. I must point out that as soon as Sean told me they were leaving, I chugged my beer then followed- they were long gone by this point. While the climber in me initially tried to stick to the true ridge, I realized that unless I wanted to take all day, this wouldn't be feasible (at a certain point I would have wanted a rope, too, which I didn't have). So at a certain point I swallowed my pride, dropped down, & just tried to find the easiest way over to the 'base' of Russell. I will iterate that this traverse is non-trivial; in fact, I wouldn't recommend it to anybody. A far more sane thing to do would be to just drop down to the basin below, & walk back along it to where Russell begins. Trust me. "3rd to 4th class" my ass. Regardless, think I summited around 12.50 or so. Departed summit at 13.15, down to the Russell-Carillon col (thanks for the suggestion, guys), to Clyde Meadow (nice to meet up with & hang with you 'til the end, JD), to the Portal! Back at the standard route beginning @ 16.37. . What a f$%!ing day
#4: Mithral Dihedral (6.13.'12)
w/ Faith. Route lived up to the hype & expectations I'd created through the years (which is amazing)- classic climb up one of the coolest & most sustained dihedrals I've ever laid eyes upon... THE dihedral was MONEY!!! The preceding, 'warm-up' dihedral was fun, too. Great day!
Winter attempt of the East ridge of Russell, with Rene' Renteria and Chris Burke. Unfortunately, we did not make the summit. We did reach the East summit (the lower one of the two) at 3 pm, and winter days are short. We decided to return to the Russell-Carillon saddle so as to not be taken by the night while on the ridge. Next time we will leave earlier in the morning. The route is long, especially in winter condition when the snow on the ridge requires extra caution. I have posted a full TR with photos TR here.