Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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ecallahan

ecallahan - Jul 27, 2005 2:32 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 24 July 2005  Sucess!

Snow down to 8500ft. Made it quickly to Horse Camp but the going was slow after that up to Helen Lake. Nice camp spot on rocks. 4am apline start the next day with perfect conditions. Snow all though the Red Banks but Misery Hill was clear. A few snow patches along the ridge 'til the summit, but no crampons or axe were needed after Red Banks. Bitter cold wind the entire day, especially up high, but clear skies. 2500ft of exhilirating glissading back to Lake Helen where we packed out and slid down another drainage until the snow ran out. Truly an amazing experience.

RangerAJ

RangerAJ - Jul 26, 2005 8:50 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 24 2005

Topped out at 12,663 ft (just above Red Banks)

Beautifull weather, Gorgeous view, fantastic (almost) full moon.



Trained in May for a climb in June that was postponed 'till July. Worked 9 shifts in 7 days leading up to this trip. My preparations need some work. I could have used a bit more time to get some sleep beforehand.

The Defiant One

The Defiant One - Jul 26, 2005 1:27 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2005

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 24, 2005  Sucess!

While driving home from oregon with my girlfriend, we decided to climb mt shasta. we slept 6 hours at some cheap motel in Weed until 11PM. By 1230AM, we were at Bunny flat with no crampons or gloves (this was an impulse climb). With just camelbacks and ice axes, we summited 6.5 hours later. a wonderful trip. i'll have to hook up with some SPers for Casaval in the winter.

plume

plume - Jul 19, 2005 2:52 am

Route Climbed: Hotlum Bolum Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2005  Sucess!

The sky was clear and the view was vast. Stuck my finger in one of the fumaroles which resulted in what only can be described for lack of a better term as fart fingers. Smelled like that all day and into the first round of chips and salsa at Shasta City's finest Mexican Restaurant. (Must be the frosty mugs)

In the Banos, I washed my hands of Shasta for this year with designs on the better-looking, more alpine Hotlum Glacier route.















Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Jul 16, 2005 2:08 pm

Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge (ascent) / Avalanche Gulch (descent) Date Climbed: May 29, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Miguel Forjan in white-out conditions. My glasses froze over and I had to take them off for the last 3000 feet of gain or so--good thing there were no views to miss out on that day!

pjc30943 - Jul 12, 2005 2:11 am

Route Climbed: Casaval Date Climbed: July 8-10, 2005

SP member hashfxn and I climbed Casaval. We started from very bottom of the ridge, and ascended straight up to 13.3k, not noticing the easy variation which we were going for.

We did not summit, but nonetheless completed all of the route.

Very poor snow conditions at all elevations led to incredibly slow progress; large snowshoes might have helped, though they would not have eliminated the problem. A party on the WF mentioned encountering similar snow, forcing them to turn around at 11k. They *did* have snowshoes...

A storm moved in that night, with high winds, snow, and whiteout, though Lake Helen only got drizzle. We descended to 13k for an emergency bivy, since 40mph winds and below freezing temps, combined with a whiteout, were not condusive to reaching Lake Helen. Winds increased as the night went on, and we descended the next day.

Excellent glissading conditions on AG at basically any time of day, except below about 9k where snow was too slushy. Postholing to the waist was the rule, not the exception, so be prepared...

Cody

Cody - Jul 11, 2005 2:52 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 7 2005  Sucess!

First time on Shasta. Perfect blue sky the whole time, a bit of wind above red banks on summit day. Left Helen at 3:30am and summited by 7:45.

mtldrinstr

mtldrinstr - Jul 10, 2005 7:42 pm

Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!

Climbed with the U.S. Marines during the Summer Mountain Leaders course. Great trip.

moneal

moneal - Jul 7, 2005 10:15 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 23, 2005  Sucess!

Summitted on what they tell me was the best weather day all year. Clear skies and no wind except on the plateau below the summit. Only problem was it was too nice (warm) and the snow was a little too soft. Post holed some on the way up, and post holed the whole way down. Glissading was not easy. On the upside you never had to worry about going to fast! Very few people on the mountain on a Thursday made it all very pleasant.

mandrake

mandrake - Jul 6, 2005 3:20 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 4th, 2005  Sucess!

Group of six of us made summit on the 4th. Beautiful day; conditions were just about perfect up there with little to no wind. Awesome uninterrupted 2500+ ft glissade from the Red Banks all the way into camp at Lake Helen.

Moogie737

Moogie737 - Jul 2, 2005 10:04 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with nebben. Misery Hill appropriately named. Experience at summit most enjoyable since the wind was light and variable (an exception, I am told). Clouds during final hour of descent brought the vis down to 100'-200'. A climb I will never forget.

kaller

kaller - Jul 1, 2005 11:16 pm

Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: June 27, 2005  Sucess!

Did some skiing. Great conditions still. Snow starts at about 1/4 mile from bunny flat.

Kalle

Rob

Rob - Jun 29, 2005 4:47 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2005  Sucess!

Good conditions, although it was very windy and cold on top.

nebben

nebben - Jun 29, 2005 1:50 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 25.05  Sucess!

Perfect weather, perfect snow, but the beef jerky I brought nearly made my entire bowels erupt. We felt virtually no wind at the top, which was so damn cool. On the way down, we encountered thunder and deteriorating weather (graupel) just past the Red Banks. I walked/slid on foot with ski poles all the way to the parking lot. I've never been so exhausted after a climb like this before. Bunny Flats - summit - Bunny Flats ~ 13.5 hours.

Thanks to Misadventures for keeping the beer cold and the great food at base camp hot.

bluefig

bluefig - Jun 27, 2005 6:39 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 26, 2005  Sucess!

1st attempt at this altitude and it was definitely a workout for me, the novice. SMG guided us and our whole gang (all 6 of us) were led up from 50-50 at 3:45 am to the summit at about 10:30am. Not bad for a bunch of hackers. SMG ROCKS! Excellent services and well trained guides. Beautiful day, awesome summit, and great people.

orangehat

orangehat - Jun 26, 2005 8:25 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 11 2005  Sucess!

Second attempt; glad to have it done! Snowed in the early evening at Helen Lake on the 10th, then cleared up for and icy night. Left camp at 6am; reached the summit at 11:45. Great snow for cramponing. The summit was clear until mid afternoon. Awesome glissade from the Banks to Helen!

gregorpatsch

gregorpatsch - Jun 22, 2005 1:35 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June, 2003  Sucess!

Absolutely perfect snow and weather conditions. Longest glissade of my life. Great climb!

MarieP

MarieP - Jun 17, 2005 1:29 am

Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Date Climbed: April 2005  Sucess!

There was no one else on the entire North side of the mountain except for our small group of 3 climbers!

leedog12 - Jun 15, 2005 9:17 am

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 9th and 10th, 2005  Sucess!

What a big, beautiful mountain! Went with a group from Shasta Mountain Guides. This was my 11th Cascade summit and my first guided climb. Turned out to be a very enjoyable and educational experience. I was a little skeptical about a bivy at Horse Camp and having such a long summit day, but the early alpine start seemed to work out well. As we were approaching Red Banks, the weather up high looked really sketchy. However, everything seemed to clear up nicely as we headed up Misery Hill. This proved to be a great climb and a long day (13 hour round trip). Adding to the enjoyment was the fact that this was a weekday climb. On the descent I could see all the weekend warriors heading up the route. Glad we were going the other way!!



If you're from Oregon (or Washington) and looking for Cascade snow, look no further than Mt. Shasta. It still feels like winter/early spring up there.

cfirpo

cfirpo - Jun 13, 2005 10:32 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 10, 2005  Sucess!

More challenging than expected but a great experience.



We camped at Helen Lake the night before our summit attempt. Snow storm right at bedtime.



Left at 6:00 AM for the summit. Not many groups heading up. Cloudy around the Red Banks but great weather otherwise.







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