Avalanche Gulch x2
Casaval R. winter
a bunch of winter attempts via Sergeants R.
With Rich Kim. Finally summited on my third attempt.
Great climb. On top by 6:45 am. Cold and windy!
We were the only people on the Bolam glacier which made for a quiet trip. The snow level was low, but overall this was a nice, easy route, and our first successful Shasta summit.
This route was quite entertaining, especially early in the season, however the catwalk was full of rocks, so we avoided that section. On misery hill, a storm rolled in and visibility went to almost zero, so we turned around. I would attempt this route again.
An ice ball to the chest ended the attempt of one of our team below the Red Banks. Brutal wind and cold sent back another at the start of misery hill. Near the crest of Misery Hill we were crawling on hands-stomach-knees to avoid getting blown off the mountain. Eventually made the summit with Moon, Andy, and Kevin.
Started at Old Ski Bowl and crossed Green Butte Ridge to bivy spot at 11k. Ascended thru Red Banks with Peter, Rahil and Doug.
First summit of Shasta via rarely done Wintun Glacier straight up the glacier. Awesome route, very fun climbing, beautiful day, great group!
First introduction to mountain climbing. Reached the summit via the Clear Creek Route. No snow up there - watch out for falling boulders!! A party near us unhinged a very large one on the slopes below, thankfully no one was hurt.
Simply an astounding mountain. Not the best views in the world, but the view from the bottom is unmatched in all of California.
Climbed the West Gully route direct with my brother (reconronin949) towards Catwalk Crux in hopes of connecting with the Knife-Edge Ridge towards Whitney Glacier. While there was still enough snow on the Catwalk, we ended up down climbing below the Knife-Edge Ridge as the conditions did not permit a safe traverse. We made the top of the West Face and had an uneventful slog up a dry Misery Hill to the summit. Weather was perfect. Glissaded most of the West Face on our return. Lots of nice folks were met along the way including Roxanne who is the caretaker at Horse Camp. No space aliens were sighted. Thanks for climbing with me Recon.
There was one last remaining ribbon of snow all the way up the West Face route, but I suspect it's gone now. Terrible snow year so you better hurry up. BTW does anyone have any idea if the cascade gulch route still exists. Everyone on the mountain warned against it due to the Whitney Glacier cross over, hence the West Face Route, which was kinda lame. Strait, steep, boring. Misery hill is completely bare right now.
I attempted the Casaval Ridge in May, but ended up traversing the slopes below the ridge before joining up with the West Face gully. There was not much snow left on the ridge. As always, the mountain was beautiful. I descended Avy Gulch and traversed to my camp without really having to regain any elevation. I will be back again!
Camped at Marine's Camp, walked over to the Lower Whitney Glacier, roped up and climbed until we got to Whitney/Shastina Saddle. Climbed the west face of the upper ridge of the Cascade Gulch. From there to the top via Misery Hill. Very easy hike and slide back down the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge to our basecamp.
Climbed with several members of the Utah Climbing Club.
4th time is a charm. First successful summit after three previous aborted ski ascents over the past 15 years. Hot day, overnight temps did not go below freezing or solidify the snowpack much. This however made it feasible and easy to skin up the entire Hotlum Wintun ridge route (veering onto the upper Wintun) almost the entire way to the summit. Bootpacked only the final 200 vertical feet. Light breeze and warm temps on the summit. Ski descent was nice.
First time I got to be roped in! Went left of heart coming up the West Face. Thanks to Shasta Mountain Guides for teaching me some great principles of mountaineering!
This was a great peak to introduce me to mountain climbing. I had a ton of fun learning the tricks of the trade and getting to the top! We lucked out and had beautiful weather.
low snow year, misery ridge completely exposed. casaval is a fun route, very interesting despite not being hard... people call it 4th class (and this could vary with season) but I found it to be almost all snow with two sections up to 45-50deg.
It was great climb after 4 years of break.....
Via H-B route