Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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mtndave - Sep 23, 2002 9:20 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: Sept. 22 ,2002, Aug. 31,2003  Sucess!

Left Bunny Flat at 2 pm , arrived at Lake Helen at 530 pm, beautiful weather ... the full moon made it great for hiking w/o headlamps in the am ... left camp at 430 am , watched the sunrise at Red Banks , summited at 830 am ,wonderful clear skies , no wind ! My first 14er and did it solo ! Summited again via HB Ridge , awesome route away from crowds !


ScottyS - Sep 5, 2002 6:15 pm

Route Climbed: Bunny Flat-->Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 31, 2002  Sucess!

Climbed w/bearbnz for our 2nd-to-last 14'er on our "Dayhiking the CA 14'ers" summer tour. Left the car at a late 0645 and summited at 1135. No snow to use, but frozen sand up the right-hand gully was the fastest part of the climb. Wind at the summit was 0-5mph, clouds to the ESE. Perfect!


IdahoClimber - Aug 13, 2002 2:25 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanch Gulch Date Climbed: June 30th, 2001  Sucess!

Made the trip from LAX to Sacramento to Shasta summit and back in less than 48 hours. Camped at the lake at the base of the bowl. Set out at 6 and summited at 9. We encountered serious wind above the Red Banks and 3 of the guys experienced mild frostbite on their fingertips. Would recommend glasses and something to cover your face. Was able to use crampons through the bowl and the banks which really sped the climb up. Glissading was very fast and rough wore a hole through rear of pants. Woops! Hope next time the summit will be clear!


neocrash - Aug 11, 2002 3:05 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 4th Aug, 2002  Sucess!

We left base camp/ Helen Lake by 5am. The wind was strong, but it was clear at the time. Two of the four in our group made it to the summit. A freak snow storm rolled in as my friend and I were at the top. In fact, the two of us were the only ones from the Avalanche Gulch route that made it. Climbing down in a white-out with sandblasting snow was the scariest thing I have ever done. Looking back, it was quite the adventure.


mpyle - Aug 10, 2002 2:40 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 1999  Sucess!

Started for summit around 5 a.m from "Lake" Helen. On top by 9. Perfect weather. Clear and almost no wind. Fun first experience with ice axe and crampons, although in retrospect I didn't have a clue what I was doing.

sarahp - Aug 9, 2002 4:22 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 29-30  Sucess!

This was my second attempt and my first summit. Perfect weather and a great trip

to the top! For pictures and more trip info, go to


rhlaird - Aug 3, 2002 10:56 am

Route Climbed: Wintun Ridge Date Climbed: June 10, 2002  Sucess!

Unbeleivably, Matt Lawler, Chris Hamilton and I were the only three people on the mountain on this day. This usually crowded mountain was a remote alpine experience. The weather had been crap starting in the afternoon on Saturday and everyone else was off the mountain by Sunday. We decided to stick it out at our camp at 10,500' for another night to see if the weather would break. Break it did, but the remnants of 80 mph gusts were still present as we approached the summit plateau. However, it was calm at the summit. Our route actually was a variation of the Wintun Ridge as we stayed below the ridge on the Clear Creek side until about 11,500' where there was still snow.


Michele - Aug 1, 2002 11:33 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: September 1999  Sucess!

Shasta was my first mountain. The one that I made all my mistakes on...not eating enough, sleeping enough, or drinking enough. Due to my climbing partners altitude sickness, we needed to stay an extra day at base camp to acclimatize, but we didn't have enough food to do so. Thanks to another altitude sick climber who gave us his food before heading down the mountain...we made it to the summit the next morning.


alpinebunny - Aug 1, 2002 7:25 pm

Route Climbed: Hotlum Bolam Date Climbed: June 15, 2002

Fell in love with glaciers, and gained respect for crevasses. Thanks to my friend and guide, Chris, and Mike, a new friend. Learned the pig rig as well. In fact, I liked it so much I'm moving from RI to CA. Just so the glaciers can be within reach at all times. ; )


mark1424 - Jul 30, 2002 11:17 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 13, 2002  Sucess!

Great trip, warm weather, eighty degrees at Lake Helen that afternoon.

Joe Hanssen

Joe Hanssen - Jul 29, 2002 10:40 am

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: May '98; May '99  Sucess!

May '98: Memorial Day weekend, 800 registered climbers, rediculously busy, but clear skies.

May '99: Memorial Day weekend, another 800 registered climbers. Lake Helen had about 75 tents, was yours one of them? On the descent, a young climber lost his axe while glissading from Red Banks and came to a stop 1000' down. Learn to use your axe!


mountaindog - Jul 28, 2002 2:17 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch - Red Banks Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!

Fun route and great summit. Misty weather but no real problems. Watch the ice in the Red Banks and wear a helmet.

AdamTreks - Jul 24, 2002 2:52 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 11 2002  Sucess!

This was the hardest climb I've ever done, and my first 14er. What made the climb great was the people I was with. Shoutout to all the Adventure Treks students in the California Challenge 1 (plus to Liz, Emilie, Liza, and Tim, and Larissa, Ben, Linda, Cait)((Plus Sam and Diana for being brave enouph to stop)). It's your freinds who make the summit worth while! And Plus to all the other peeps who got there too, and those who didn't, you're all amazing.

To people who don't know Adventure Treks is an amazing outdoor program for teens 13-18. We do the coolest things with the coolest people. Interested? Check it out!


ocelot - Jul 9, 2002 8:28 pm

Route Climbed: West Bolum Glacier Date Climbed: July 5, 2002

This was a great adventure and although we only got to about 12,000 feet, I enjoyed this climb as much as when I summited 9 years ago via the Avalanche Gulch route.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Jun 19, 2002 9:56 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: May 25, 2002  Sucess!

Roundtrip time was 5 hours longer than last year, but it was fun going to the top with my younger brother. Trip Report


rcorby2 - Jun 12, 2002 8:34 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanch Gulch Date Climbed: June 7, 8, and 9, 2002

Climb was planned for June 7, 8, and 9th, 2002. Afternoon of 6/8 clouds rolled in. Later in the afternoon snow and high winds (40mph+) started hitting our camp at 50/50 Flat. In the morning (2:00am) the storm had intensified to 50mph+ so a summit attempt was called off. Retreated down the Climber's Gully the morning of the 9th. For those who are interested, this was part of a three day Intro to Mountaineering Course and I will post the details of this in a trip report within the next week or two.


mdostby - Jun 3, 2002 9:22 pm

Route Climbed: Avy Gulch Date Climbed: June 2, 2002  Sucess!

Awesome day! After two days of questionable weather Sunday cleared up very nicely. No wind, cool in the morning and very warm later in the day. Climbed with two good friends, sford and forjan. We all summited by 9:30 AM. My fourth summit.

-Mike Ostby-


synne.chadwick - May 18, 2002 4:54 am

Route Climbed: Green Buttress to Sargeants Ridge Date Climbed: December 2000  Sucess!

We started off late in the afternoon because we were waiting to see what the weather would do. As we started out, the wind picked up speed. It got worse as we set up camp. We were so tired we were hoping that the weather would stay bad and give us a rest day, but, at 2:00am the weather was calm and clear, so we ate our breakfast and started climbing. We summited at 12:30pm. As far as we could tell, not only did we have the summit to ourselves, we were the only people on the whole mountain. The ridge was pretty easy, though there was a lot less snow than normal. Having all the chossy boulders covered in snow would have been better. It's true what people say, misery hill is truly miserable!


Glencoe - May 7, 2002 6:20 pm

Route Climbed: Green Butte/Sargeants Ridge Date Climbed: 23rd November, 2001

Snowshoed to window at 10,000ft. Postholed knee deep even in snowshoes. Storm warning broadcast. Made camp. Extremely strong winds throughout the night. Dug out in the morning. White out, heavy snow fall and strong winds prevented further progress. Returned to hot-tub at ground level. Will attempt again in spring.

jeffn - Apr 3, 2002 7:59 pm

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 2000  Sucess!

Windy enough that Rangers were trying to turn use back. Still well worth it.

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