Mount Sill Climber's Log

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ljwoodw - Jun 13, 2022 1:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2022

3rd time was a charm  Sucess!

via North Couloir. Snow was very soft and there was much post-holing (but obviously safe snow). We found the Class 2-4 moves above the couloir very tame with little exposure. Probably the most uncomfortable part of the day was the loose crap in Glacier Notch.

Nick Ontengco

Nick Ontengco - Oct 31, 2020 10:52 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2020

INSANE!  Sucess!

Epic day! 14 hours round trip, traverse around the ice on glaciers notch up apex peak added time but made it more adrenaline filled. Trail appears and disappears after the SF route split off to willow lake making for a longer day but it was awesome. I recommend bringing crampons for sure unless your hiking from the south.


Diesel - Aug 26, 2020 10:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2020

Beware the couloir

I went up there to climb Gayley (I climbed Sill in 2015) and looking at the L shape couloir it was nothing but a sheet of ice. Being a low snow year caused the snow there to harden and polish. I hope that who gets up there this year knows what they are doing and are very technically prepared. Going along the sides was also not an option: there's ice over the entire width. I got pictures of it: if anyone needs to take a look, hit me up with an email.


dgkirk - Feb 6, 2020 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2018

SW slope solo slog  Sucess!

Followed the Southwest slope route description. Loooooong approach. But gorgeous. Decent amount of snow in the chutes, but chose to scramble up the rock instead. Will definitely be back to tackle the Palisades.


wmolland - Aug 1, 2019 10:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2019

Swiss Arete  Sucess!

Lots of snow on the approach, but a fun few pitches of mainly low 5th class to the stunning summit. The crux step across is all mental and pretty simple as long as the exposure doesn't get to you. Overall, an awesome experience!


pezzotto - Jul 19, 2019 8:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2019

Sill + Polemonium   Sucess!

Couldn't do the whole traverse without having to bivy out. First alpine climbing experience

utclimber - Aug 30, 2017 11:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017

Palisade Traverse  Sucess!

Did the Palisade traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill as a day hike from South Lake. The descent was pretty easy to the south, but going over Potluck and Thunderbolt passes was not fun at the end of the day.


DukeJH - Sep 19, 2016 7:07 pm

Re: North Couloir Dayhike

I think we heard you guys Saturday night when you got into the meadow. We packed into Sam Mack Meadow Saturday and got an alpine start Sunday.


DukeJH - Sep 19, 2016 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2016

North Couloir - What Beta?  Sucess!

Backpacked into Sam Mack Meadow Saturday. Alpine start and hike out on Sunday made for a very long day. Going up the Class 3 chute above the glacier, we ended up on Class 4 slabs to the right. Coming down the Class 3 chute on a use trail was simply loose as sh!t.


austinorville1 - Sep 19, 2016 5:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2016

North Couloir Dayhike  Sucess!

Very long day with Rob,Tam, Frank,and Brenda. The hike in was good on the North Fork. We took a chute from Sam Mack Meadow up to the Little lake at the base of the Glacier. The glacier wasn't a problem so we just went straight for the base of the glacier notch. The sketchiest part for me was the class 3 up to the notch. It was pretty loose until about half way up. The class 4 section was awesome though. Probably a little easier than class 4 but awesome. Summit was rad spent about 20 minutes up top eating and snappin pics. Climbed down and it got dark about a half mile from Sam Mack. Got back to the car just before 3am. Great day will forsure remember this one forever.


colinr - Aug 27, 2016 1:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016

Dayhike via Bishop Pass  Sucess!
Sierra Challenge Day 7


rdesota - Jul 15, 2016 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2000

Beautiful View  Sucess!

Climbed from Apex peak 5.4 ish beautiful. Also cilmbed solo from back side previously. Beautiful peak.


Romain - Jul 15, 2016 2:02 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2012

North Couloir  Sucess!

Second time on Sill. With R. Renteria the easy way. Then went up Polemonium and did a planned bivy on the ridge between the two. Great night near 14,000 ft.


Fairweather - Oct 23, 2015 11:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 1984

Swiss Arete  Sucess!

Perfect day from Sam Mack Meadow. Fun route.
With Mark, Rick, and Marty.
Some ice to negotiate on the descent.
Climbed Gayley afterwards. - Oct 22, 2015 3:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2013

As far as Scimitar Pass

Brought a first time climber to Mount Sill. Attempted to climb via Scimitar Pass, then South East face. Made it up Scimitar Pass. Climbing partner was tired and became overwhelmed by the altitude, steepness, loose rocks, etc; and did not want to come down. We reached Scimitar Pass at 3 PM, about a 5 hour climb. It took 7 hours to get down to the area of camp. We arrived after dark. We were camped behind a marshy area with brush. I could not find the camp and we spent the night out in the open. I am a former Navy navigator and skilled with compass, maps, even celestial, if I had a sextant, and had declined to use GPS. I did not imagine the need to hike around at night off trail. This event led to my purchase of GPS. - Oct 22, 2015 2:59 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013

Driven off by lightning

Attempted Mount Sill by the Scimitar Pass, South East face route. Made it up Scimitar Pass. Rounded the base of Mount Jepson. Hit by 20-30 mph winds, drizzle, and buildup of dark clouds from the west. Hustled back up and over the pass. At the base of the Norman Clyde Glacier, thunder storm began in the area of Mount Jepson, about 1/4 mi. away. - Oct 22, 2015 2:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014

Unsuccessful trip to Mount Sill

Not successful. Went up to Mount Sill, with nephew, his first time. Intended to climb the L-Couloir. Couloir looked steep and we looped around to take the Scimitar Pass and Southeast Side route. This was too much of a hike and we turned back. - Oct 22, 2015 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2014

Mount Sill L Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed Mount Sill with Armando Figueroa by the L-Couloir. Approach from South Fork Big Pine Creek trail. Camped along the stream, past the turnoff to Lake Elinore.


Diesel - Jul 12, 2015 2:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2015

Mout Sill day hike  Sucess!

Solo hike on North Fork from Glacier Lodge, up the North L-Shapped couloir. I was so concerned about this hike, weather and difficulty, I almost didn't go. Started at 3:00AM, got to the summit at 10:10AM. No ropes, no climbing equipment. The crampons, helmet and ice axe were not necessary, but I used them. Dark, heavy clouds were pointing to a thunder storm. 10 minutes on the summit was all I spent up there, mostly looking for the geological marker I've never found. I signed the registry and left. Got back to car at 4:30PM. Great, enjoyable hike. Many thanks to summitpost's Cab for his topo map and for manning me up.

ljwoodw - Jul 6, 2015 2:10 am Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2014

Not this time...

Bailed before reaching Glacier Notch from the North Fork. Couldn't decide between the steep loose scree, black ice, or powdery snow. Decided to visit all seven lakes instead. Will try again...

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