Bill Ayers and I climbed this route from a camp at 5,200 ft. The conditions on the route were perfect. We did a few pitches on steep ice through the ice cliff, then negotiated some crevasses and the bergschrund, and simul-climbed the couloir to the ridge. We slogged up the ridge in soft snow to the summit and then descended the Sherpa Glacier. The snow on the descent was soft, but we made quick progress downclimbing. Very interesting route and descent. Terrible approach.
This was my first attempt at mountainiering. We made it to the false summit via the Cascadian before I ran out of talent, time and courage. I have now overcome my fear of heights and the true summit is only a trailhead access away.
My wife and I climbed the complete North ridge and the gendarme. Doing the Complete ridge is much longer than going up the gully, but it has some of the best climbing. We climbed the Gendarme as well, well worth it. We did have a mini epic though, as we descended the Ulrich coulior in the dark. Don't do this! The descent ended up taking as much time as the climb.
We waited a bit too long to climb this one. The snow level was around 8,000 feet. The summit ridge was caked in ice and there wasn't enough snow to fill in the cracks. We turned back about five steps after the false summit. The crappy conditions on the ridge were offset by the gold larches and other fall colors. The weather was perfect.
Climbed complete N ridge with James L. Approach Teannaway, alti read 6660 at toe. Bivy at notch, did gendarme and down Cascadian. Death march to car. Used Guide 10's whole way, nice.
3 hard days, bivied in snow cave at base of route. Deep unconsolidated snow on entire North approach and 1/2 way up route, trouble getting across schrunds and crevasses. Huge overhanging cornice at top of couloir. Did 5.7 30' rock on right, dry tool, very gripped. Descend Sherpa.
Done in 3 easy days from Teannaway, intended to do the W ridge but mistakenly started at Goat pass instead, bivied just above pass and on summit, down Cascadian. Fun route. Rats and Picas at bivies.
Perfect weather and fantastic granite. The descent down Cascadian Couloir is the most physically demanding and time consuming portion of the climb. Overall a fine day.
Great peak, but lots of loose slogging.
Took a variation of the Cascadian Couloir route. Route snow-free at this point. Careful of extremely loose rocks below the false summit. This was a physically challenging trip but very rewarding.
Excellent snow coverage, with minimal route finding problems (although we had to stop and think a few times). Despite the lack of technical challenge, the route proved to fun and demanding. I look forward to returning via Stuart Glacier Couloir or West Ridge next year.
p.s. Kyle keep on your exercise regimen!
Woke up around 3AM and were headed for the Cascadian Couloir by 4. The weather was unusually crappy for this time of the year and was very cold on the ascent. By the time I reached the false summit I was exhausted and not in shape to ascend the final, steeper snowfield to the true summit so I stayed at the false summit while my friends ascended the final part. The weather got sunny while I was waiting and I finally got warm, which made the opportunity to nap with a mountain goat a pretty cool one
It was 90 degrees at Longs Pass, which made my feet sweat in my mountaineering boots (WHY DIDN'T I BRING APPROACH SHOES??). My feet were completely raw and blistered by the time we had approached the couloir. My feet barely recovered in time for Rainier. We hope to attempt again in October '07
8 hours roundtrip for Mount Stuart's West Ridge route (descending Cascadian Couloir). I enjoyed this route and the clear and crisp mid-September weather.
Nice two day climb with 6 other people. Camped by the creek half a mile or less from the start of the trail up the couloir. Incredible views on from the higher slopes of the mountain. Recommend a quick digression to go to a little pass that becomes visible after the top of the couloir. Only about 100 ft off to the right from the main path, and the view of Sherpa Peak is amazing. We were lured there by a mountain goat and its child, who were hanging around. Snowfield below false summit had all but melted out, with two steep patches remaining. Rather sketchy and extremely loose getting up to the false summit. Fun scramble to the true summit from there though.
Long climb on mixed rock, sometimes solid, sometimes crappy, fun all around climb.
It was hot, and heat exhaustion sucks... Good climb though.
After Dragontail, I knew Stuart would be next. I climbed up the rock and down the slushy snow. The summit views were amazing and I didn't see anyone else on the mountain the entire trip.
The traverse was quite a slog, but the rock was awesome. We approached via Ingalls Pass and went out via Longs Pass. Great views from the summit. Lots of goats, even at 8000 ft. Had to watch out for their rock fall. There were small patches of snow still for snow melt - but still important to bring plenty. We had a super sweet bivy around 8200 ft. Sheltered (almost cave like), flat & clear of rocks. It fit 3 of us with plenty of room for gear. Had a magnificant view of Adams & Rainier. AMAZING!
I had a spare day and no partner, so I went up this route to scout it out for descents. One of the most beautiful views ever, but doing a one day push made for a tiring day.