From Paiute Peak. Trip Report
Total Ascents = 3. First time via North face, a nice 5.5 climb. Other two ascents from Pawnee Peak.
Previously climbed in 78 and attempted in November 2000. Light snow this time. My son's 1st summit.
Fun solo climb. Simple climbing on great rock. Very short approach too.
One of my favorites!!!!!!
Awesome clear day. Reached summit around 10 am and skied down shortly thereafter. Snow was getting quite soft, and I was glad we were up there early.
Very nice alpine climb - incredible views!! Just enough snow for a speedy glissade down.
Great approach up to Blue Lake. Nice hike up several snowfields. Excellent views! Saw no one else up on the hill.
Fun climb. Beautiful hike in. Nice Glissade down.
This was my first alpine rock climb. I would describe it as short sections of fun climbing between easy and loose scrambling. I think I got the most fun lead-a short chimney before the big (BIG) ledge. My friends enjoyed listening to me curse my pack and the clink of my ice axe clink off the rock as I wriggled my way up.
This was my second snow climb, the first being Banner Peak in the Sierra Nevadas (though I turned back a couple hundred feet shy of the summit on Banner). Easier than the first; but, no less enjoyable.
Climbed on continous snow from Blue Lake, which was still mostly frozen. No snowshoes or crampons, just perfect kick snow. Go early enough to catch the steep tongue of snow that turns right and climbs to the summit. Great glissade all the way back down, just watch for slide potential.
Avalanche. Do yourself a favor and read Andy's very thorough trip report below.
Read the full trip report here.
Got Pawnee and Toll the same day, took Pawnee Pass to Pawnee, over to Toll and down the Blue Lakes drainage. Nice loop.
Climbed the North Ridge as described by ben as part of my challenge to cover the whole ridge from Audubon, Paiute, Toll, Pawnee, and Little Pawnee in a day. Was a great trip (see my tripreport for more information). I had planned to use the Northwest Face route, but sitting below the North Ridge I decided to give it a go. The climbing was easier than expected (did not even bring gear, but saw some old rusty bolts). It amounts to 3 moves that are 5.6, otherwise it is pretty simple. And even these moves are not very exposed, so that I always felt that I could stop myself in case of a fall. -- One chimney section provided a smaller problem since I could barely squeeze myself and my backpack up.
On the way down I also summited Toll's no-name neighboor to the south.
Climbed with Jim Lierman and Aaron Johnson. No one on the mountain but us. That's the rest of the world's loss; our gain. Nice, nice mountain!!!!
The snowfield is a great early June climb, and a wonderful glissade back down. Easy traverse to Pawnee adds some views south.