Mount Washington (Oregon) Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 84

cyffredinol - Jul 27, 2013 2:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2013

watch out for falling rocks!  Sucess!

Another great trip with Karl and the gang. Met at least four other groups on the mountain. Dodged quite a lot of rocks kicked down by one of them. A fun climb in perfect weather.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Oct 7, 2012 1:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

Sweet climb  Sucess!

The approach was pretty crappy. The cairn on the PCT was easy to find, but the climbers trail was terribly overgrown and unmaintained. So pay attention, we lost the trail 8 or 9 times. Once we gained the ridge it was easy to approach the summit block. Then the fun begins. SP says to take the second ramp, but in reality there is a small ramp that they don't mention so you should really take the third ramp. The second isn't bad but there is a lot of exposure. The third was a class 4. After that it's pretty easy sailing. Don't be intimidated by all the hype. This rock is not too hard and very rewarding. Have fun and be safe.


santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 11:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2011

North Ridge  Sucess!

We set a fixed line for the sketchy part. I was glad to have it as the fall is substantial and the holds, while plentiful, can be questionable. Rappelled on the way down, fun climb.

Infected Mushroom

Infected Mushroom - Sep 18, 2011 10:02 pm

A quick jaunt up N ridge  Sucess!

Real fun climb with short approach. Belayed a short bit then scrambled.


JGHarrison - Aug 22, 2011 12:31 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011

Nice flowers  Sucess!

Not much in the way of mosquitoes cept at twilight and early morning. Wildflowers were gorgeous.


RetroGear - Jan 9, 2011 11:21 pm

Mulple Times -Multiple Routes  Sucess!

First climbed the North Ridge back in 1971. Over the next three decades climbed West Face, King Rat, Chimney of Space, South Face, South Face Dihedral, Southeast Spur and East Buttress.
Over the years have bivied (intentionally )on top four times - neat spot.


iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 5:02 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2009

2nd Time's a Charm  Sucess!

This mountain kicked our butts the first time. We came from the southern Lava fields for the fun of it and tried the south wall, but we didn't have enough pro, so we backed around and ran out of time looking for the north route. This time we climbed right up it from the north with no problem.


Pallando - Aug 20, 2010 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010

North Ridge  Sucess!

Took a friend up. Had an awesome time, made it back down to catch a catamaran ride back to camp.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Jul 20, 2010 10:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2010

North Ridge...  Sucess!

Dian, John, and I had the mountain to ourselves all day...
Perfect weather, although a bit windy at the notch as well as the first pitch. I ended up carrying the rope on the rappel because it was impossible to throw. Mosquitoes were bad at the trailhead to the ridge but nonexistent from the ridge to the summit. We took the screeway back which had a couple of snow traverses, but still much better than descending the ridge.
First time leading this climb...
No snow on the ascent.


millsb40 - Jun 30, 2010 1:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2010

North Ridge (Nightmare)  Sucess!

I had read (almost) everything I could on Mt. Washington before my trip (except this page). The weather was nice, but clouds moved in as we hit the summit block (it was windy and cold when the clouds moved in). Anyway, I didn't read enough and poor visibility didn't help, but went the first (wrong) left leaning ramp. Don't take the ramp that takes off from the saddle (unless you like poor protection and dangerous exposure). This leads to a bulge that you must go over with questionable protection. The first protection was a double sling clove hitch on a fairly decent horn. There was no other possible protection after this. Had to climb rotten stuff up and over with no more pro. I chose to move left for a second, much more questionable horn, which I slung with a girth hitch. This sent you up a scree/rubble/rock shoot with 1500' exposure to the rappel rock. As mentioned below NOT recommended! Unfortunately, I went up a bit too far before realizing no one in their right mind would climb this and then had no intentions of down climbing that garbage (especially with the "Stellar" protection). Of course weather cleared on summit and it became pretty obvious we had taken the wrong route. I would avoid this route like the plague.


kraymes - May 20, 2010 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007

North Ridge  Sucess!

Solo up and rapped down. Good times.


Snowslogger - Dec 28, 2009 12:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 1992

Another good one  Sucess!

Climbed this with Sally and a bunch of my original Oregon climbing buddies. Went up a second time a couple years later. A fun mtn.


alpinedon - Nov 21, 2009 7:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008

North Ridge  Sucess!

Finally getting around to entering all my old summits...did this one over a year ago, fun climb with my climbing partner Scott C. Very windy day, but overall lots of fun. Didn't use the rope, but would use a 1/2 rope for the rappel next time.


rmick25 - Sep 4, 2009 4:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009

Great fun!  Sucess!

What a beautiful day hike. Everything went perfect on way up. Nice and cool for Aug. Then on descent after rappelling main summit block my buddy peeled of a huge chunk of rock and took quite a spill. Fortunately he was wearing a helmet and the big chunks of rock missed him and he didn't tumble down the next cliff band. I then took a smaller spill and bashed myself up all over. Gotta love Cascade rock!


dirth - Aug 6, 2009 1:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

"First" "Technical" Summit  Sucess!

I have done a good amount of semi technical climbing although mostly on snow, this was my first "technical" rock peak. Didn't turn out to be technical for me, free climbed the fifth class pitches and setup top-rope belays for the other person I was with who was less comfortable. Good experience, fun mountain.


Pallando - Jul 26, 2009 11:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009

North Ridge  Sucess!

Got the flu saturday, but during the night I thought my fever broke. Woke at 5:00 at Big Lake feeling much better.
Large group, but after going around the wrong trail near some lakes (Hutch's?) lost an hour and a half with no distance gained. Most of the party bailed and went back to camp for some sailing, a friend and my dad bushwacked to the PCT.
Due to illness, very slow going on the climber's trail. Summited at 11:25 from the chimney a little to the west. Roped up for a pitch after the chimney this time, and rapped down the same part. Saw Moni and Fred in the log book, and someone with my dad's name (Jim Prichard, anyone?).
Exhausted as we got sight of Big Lake at 2:45. Flagged down our friends and sailed back to camp.


JGHarrison - Jul 12, 2009 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009

Nightmare variation of the North Ridge  Sucess!

Headed East around all the pillars on the North ridge to a horribly sketchy loose gully that comes up facing southwest into the main North face...dislodged a giant rock that cut my rope almost in half, and just missed my partner. Do Not recommend this route, definitely stay west of the pillars...good adventure though, but damn...close one.

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Mar 26, 2009 12:36 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008

North Ridge  Sucess!

Finally climbed this one after all these years, with Moni and Fred Spicker.


oregonmtnman - Dec 11, 2008 12:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004

North Ridge Route  Sucess!

Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Great climb. This mountain is so beautiful. Great views.


Pallando - Sep 18, 2008 1:22 am

Quick Day Trip from Sisters  Sucess!

I'd been up to the summit block when I was much younger – and no further.
So when my friends said they wanted to climb Washington that day (from Sisters, it's a quick trip) I was a little skeptical.
We made it to the block late (4:30) and were advised to not go further, since roping up makes the trip much longer. We heeded the advice, but decided to do a little free climbing anyway. Much to our surprise, we got quite far up the gulley with no real need for roping up, so we set a 30 minute ultimatum and decided to go as far as we could manage. I stayed behind with the dog (I would not have brought a dog, and definitely not this far) while my friends summited in 8 minutes. We had time for me and a friend to go up and we all made it down before our 30 minute restriction.

Surprised, but next time I'll bring rope.

Viewing: 1-20 of 84
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