Spent a night at the portal, hiked to Upper Boyscout on July 17. Took about 4.5 hours with loaded packs. Rain and hail in later afternoon and evening. July 18 - 2 hours up to Iceberg. From there stayed left and climbed class 3/4 up to the based of the buttress route. (There is a really cool view of the east face if you scramble up to the notch between tower 1 and 2 on the buttress route) Then traversing right to the first gully, up to the top o fthe notch. Hail on and off all the way up to the top making the final chute a little hairy with some slippery rocks. Think it was about 2.5 -3 hours to the top from iceberg with the slight detour.
Hiked into trail camp on day 1. Sat around, then hit it at 4:00 AM on day 2. Had the summit to ourselves!
First attempt summer 1967 via mountaineer's route with Dad. Got snowed out at Iceberg Lake.
First summit summer, 1979
Second summit summer, 1983
Third summit July 4, 1988 from base camp at Sky Blue Lake to the south.
Forth summit September 2001 added it as a side trip to Mt. Muir
What can I say? Its there, and its great!
Got AMS bad. Had to turn back. Doing it again in September 2002. Wish me luck!
I made this climb during a long weekend with my buddy Blair. At the top of the notch, the chute to the summit was filled with snow. Blair climbed the face to the east of the chute to avoid the snow; I stuck to the rocks at the edge of the chute and picked my way up. There were several other parties on the route that day. During the descent, a highschool aged fellow from another party broke out of some steps across the snow in the chute and fell to end up spread-eagle, face-down on a small (20' x 20') snow patch above a cliff. The next fellow, hurrying across the same spot to help ALSO FELL and ended up in the same spot. This was enough for me. I took off down the west slopes with the intent of traversing back across the north slopes to the top of the notch. The closer I got to the notch the steeper the traverse. I was kicking steps in the snow and using my ice axe and ice hammer for handholds. Then, one kick didn't go in very far. I looked down, and noticed one crampon had come off and was stuck in the snow 3 feet to my right. Here I was, alone, unprotected by any rope or anchor, and staring at a very important piece of equipment which I would dearly like to have had, but which was not obtainable. I left it there and just kicked harder to get to the safety of the notch, which was 50 feet away. Meanwhile, the climbers above had set protection and gotten out the ropes and were able to lower the injured climbers down to me at the notch. The only injuries were bumps and scrapes, and everyone got down safely to the campsites below the east face. All's well that ends well, and this experience has provided a heck of a party story. Be careful folks. The mountains can be dangerous as well as fun!
Early spring conditions. Snow was perfect..... both in the morning and evening. Camped at 12,000 feet, and sumitted the next day at 1030am. It was sunny, but quite windy.
Knowing how crowded Whitney usually is, it was very satifying to be the only ones on top during Easter weekend!! The route and the summit view combined makes this a beautiful mountain to climb.
A group of six from Ridgecrest summited via the mountaineer's route in 8 hours. Returned to parking lot via the "superhighway" trail. RT in 13 hours. Third ascent of Whitney, the others were in 1983 from the west side JMT and 1987 via main trail.
Spring conditions. Slush during the afternoon involving body height post-holes (one guy sank in 7-8 feet!) with winds gusting up to 110 mph on the hike out. At least no quota ;-) Probably not a good idea to be on the East Face with those winds but I did run into 3 people intent on camping on the summit (they ended up sleeping in the summit hut). Lightning could be seen at Trail Camp on the night of the 14th. If you want to read an extremely verbose version of this summit log, feel free to read my SP Trip Report.
Dragged 2 Brits up to show off what we Yanks have. It worked. Took the Trade Route down. Mistake and a let down after the trip up.
Alone on Easter Weekend! What are the chances of that! This was our first CA 14er, and one of the best. Whitney in the summer on the trail is a drag. Way too many people. This is one place on God's Green Earth where having a quota is actually a good idea. Conditions were at their spring best. Windy at the notch at the end of the coulior, and way too icy to traverse to less steep ground, so we we climbed straight up from the notch. This was fun 'cause it was steeper than what we planned for, yet still doable. We couldn't believe we were alone on the summit. That will probably never happen again.
Very classic. Started at 5:00 AM before the crowd got wild. You can start about anywhere from the Second Tower and turn it into an adventure. We had some fun after the third pitch and went way right, out into No-Man's Land. Good exposure looking down into the Mountaineer's Route. Found some fun scampering up 5.8/5.9 cracks (old pins stamped TMH...I'm assuming these were T.M. Herbert's) and a few faded fixed lines from seasons past dangling down into the M.R. Summitted at 9:00 AM. Took a good sized nap till 11:00 then hiked over to Mt. Russell for some more abuse.....
So close I could taste it! This route takes on a whole new challange during the winter. I made it to the notch at 14,000 foot before turning back. The wind was incredible! 80+ mph gusts that literally could blow a climber off the mountain. Several times I found myself dropping to the ground, plunging my axe as deep as I could get it to keep from being blown down the gully. This was my second attempt this winter. Except for the wind high on the mountain the weather was awesome. What an incredible place to be during the winter!!!
Climbed the peak on a good weather day in 2:24 and walked down. Third time to the top.
Turned back just below lower boyscout lake. Very nice weather.......clear.....cold.....no wind. Lots of new snow. Snow shoes a must. I broke one of my ski poles and the rivits in one of my snowshoes broke making it impossible to use. My partner continued on. He met up with a guided group led by Kurt Wedberg and hopefully will summit tommorow.
Summated at the finish of an endurance run, badwater, by the grace of GOD late in the evening as it got dark, it was very windy and cold. Beautiful summit.
A friend and I turned around and started down but I had been up for over 2 days and was falling asleep on my feet in the dark along the '99 switchbacks so we slept in the freezing cold till we could go on, got down to the trailhead at the portals as the sun came up. Praise GOD!
Hiked/climbed Mt Whitney four times now. The first three times were one-day trips via the Mt Whitney trail (08/1997, 07/1998 and 08/1998). The last time I did it was via an ascent of the Mountaineer's Route, with a descent of the Mt Whitney Trail (07/1999). The last trip was an overnighter (where we stayed at Iceberg Lake). Each Mt Whitney experience I have had can be summarized in just two words: Simply Fantastic!!!
Great trip! I went with 2 friends and we had a great time, the mountaineer's route is pristine. Other climbers we met were a pleasure to talk with. The toilet on the top was pretty funny to see.
The one thing that I can remember the most was there were 2 guys smoking and had to stop at each switchback to take a puff. I don't think they made it to the summit. Don't remember seeing them there.
Enjoyed each trip up Whitney, but I favor the Mountaineers Route for its solitude, a bit more scenic, & it's a little more than just one foot in front of the other.
Second time up Whitney, last time in 1991. The weather was terrible, and snowed on the summit in July (see accompanying photo). Not wanting to do the switchbacks, we glissaded from Trail Crest nearly all the way down to Trail Camp.