Whew. This one was a doozy. Started from the Rock of Ages TH around 4am (should have started earlier) and made our way quickly up to the Rock of Ages Saddle. Scampered on down and then began our ascent of the south side of Mount Wilson, going up the Green Wall, across the loose gulley, and finally to the summit ridge of Mount Wilson. Clouds swirled throughout the morning but nothing too threatening loomed. It took us 5.5 hours from TH to summit, which was longer than we expected. The Class 4 climb at the end was harder than I thought it'd be...I was really shaken up and scared up there, but my allies helped me regain my composure and complete the climb. For the first exposed move on the ridge, I made my way around the left (east) side to avoid exposure on both sides. Solid holds and nothing too difficult. We did the Class 3 (east) side on the final move and it was pretty simple. Easier than the first part. We made our way quickly down and decide to pursue Wilson Peak, even with a storm coming in ...bad idea. We made our way across the ledges and the legs were a bit shaky and tired from the long day. Took too long to get to the summit, and by the time we were making it down the ridge the storm was upon us. We quickly made our way off the ridge and decided to get off the main route and cruise down the mountain around the Class 3 ledges. It worked to our favor and was the safer option given the wet/flowing conditions. The storm finally broke as we made our way back to the Rock of Ages Saddle, and we enjoyed a cruisy hike back to the car.
Climbed Mount Wilson and Wilson Peak from Rock of Ages TH. Started just after 4 am. Summited Mount Wilson just after 10:00 am. The last 150 feet are no joke and should be respected. Also, the talus climb leading to the final ridge was perhaps the worst part of the hike. Clouds started forming but no storms were materializing so we decided to tag Wilson Peak as well. The class 3 ledges were fun but tiring after already summiting Mount Wilson. Unfortunately, a big storm to the west materialized as we were summiting Wilson Peak. The descent from Wilson Peak was wet and scary with some lightning. Luckily, we managed to avoid the large strikes and made it down A-OK. Finished around 5:30. With Jesse Sumrak.
With Marshall. Outstanding timing on this one, due to our avoidance of rain/graupel while on the traverse. Super fun, interesting, and lots of exposure that grows as you move towards Mount Wilson. I thought the final 200 yards had the thinnest ridge and most exposure, but the holds are all there. Descending the standard MW route is talus city for days.
Combined with a morning climb up El Diente, the 2-hr, 1-mile traverse over to Mt Wilson is a gotta-have combo! (Wilson Peak same day is a little too far) Similar to the Bells traverse, I wore leather gloves and comfy shoes. Rain in August, who would of thought? Approaching from the SE, the 7-mile Kilpacker Trail offered lush vegetation, water access, well-cairned talus fields, and an upwind view of inbound clouds & thickness. Although commitment & exposure remain high on Mt Wilson, an escape route at the saddle near the narrow section is only about a 30-min commitment worst case scenario. #50 was challenging but an exhilarating & aerial tour of the Uncompagre!
Several previous attempts on this summit were scuttled due to weather, worn out partners and even volatile work schedules. Happy to finally reach the summit under nearly cloudless September skies.
Several precious attempts on this summit were scuttled due to weather, worn out partners and even volatile work schedules. Happy to finally reach the summit under nearly cloudless September skies.
After arriving at Woods Lake in the late afternoon, Kessler and I hiked over the pass and to Navajo Lake. We took this approach since I hadn’t done it before.
After reaching Navajo Lake and seeing that a lot of people were camped there, we pushed on up the talus and camped on a grassy bench at 11,960 feet elevation. It was almost dark, so we set up camp, filtered water, ate dinner, and went right to bed.
I didn't sleep much at all, so we got a later start than planned. We didn't it the trail until 6:40 AM. We then hiked up towards Rock of Ages Saddle, but cut off to the north spur of Mount Wilson. The first half of the spur was a pretty nice scramble, but the second half was an unpleasant and steel talus slog. We reached the ridge and then heded for the summit. The last part was a fun and exposed scramble. We reached the summit at 10:00 AM and spend 40 minutes on top.
On the way down, it started to hail and snow. We went down the mountain as quick as we could, but my feet were really sore so we didn't go as fast as we wanted. We packed up camp in the rain and then headed back to the trailhead. It was a very long trip down with sore feet.
Solo. From El Diente. Took about two hours on the traverse. Must have been a little off route at times getting up some low 5 chimneys. Tons of loose rock. Had both peaks to myself. Cloudy all day, but thankfully no rain.
Exhausting day of boulder hopping. With Michael T
Smoky skies and fun scrambling
#1 09-21-18 W/ Lana. Camped at 10,550', set out at 6:30 and enjoyed lovely fall weather including light winds on the summit. This is not an easy climb, especially if you don't like rocks, boulders and sketchy sections where rockfall is a real threat. Nonetheless enjoyable.
Climbed with Matt, camped at Kilpacker TH, 530a to 1900 hrs. More of a snow climb this time of year with occasional class 3 rock. Good, but long day.
This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.
Really great day!!
Summitted after doing the traverse from El Diente. Had a fantastic day. These were Josh Lewis's forst CO 14ers. The 4th class on top was more technical than anything on Capitol
Lots of loose rocks and scree, this route is the best with snow, otherwise be ready for some suffer fest. However, despite loose rock this was grea climb.
With Kat and Dave
Took the traverse from El Diente (awesome route) and descended the very loose south face into Kilpacker Basin. The crux move at the end is exhilarating!
finished the Colorado 14ers after 25 years. Took a route from Kilpacker basin that is not aesthetic but avoids the class 4 section. Basically just some class 2 gully climbing with loose rocks. Great weather on top, especially considering the recent monsoon weather
Approached from Rock of Ages. 9 hours roundtrip.