Due to the worse weather forecast for next few days we decided to go from Camp 2 right to the summit. Sunny day, windless, stable..(except summit). Caa at 15:15 we were standing on summit, group of six. (strong wind here, but good visibility end mood as well)
I had a blast spending 18 grueling, endurance-fest-filled-days on Mustagh Ata. I was proud to be part of one of the only teams on the mountain (the only team?) who was not using porters or cooks, and enjoyed skiing from the summit with my climbing partner Aron Ralston. We organized our expedition through the only Uyghur mountaineering group in China: http://www.ksalpine.com/ and I highly recommend them. I'll try and post a trip report as soon as possible.
Perfect weather: sunny, blue sky and only a little wind. Ascent from C2 (~6200m) departing at around 6 a.m. Reaching summit sometime in the afternoon and descending back to C2, where I arrived around 8 p.m. Used only crampons! Funny thing (despite the perfect conditions): this was my very "personal" summit day, because no other climbers were above C2 :-)
Due to bad weather conditions we decided to turn back at 6900m. Maybe next time!
Non traditional route is Tash route on right of picture. Can be very cold, got frostbite on summit day,which is apparently very common. Skinned up with no problems on rotations. Skiing down was super difficult in concrete snow with heavy pack. Good peak for high altitude exposure, take plenty of acclimitization time for maximimum benefit. Used base camp support of summit climb, highly recommended.
Climbed as a guide for Jagged Globe. Sat out a storm for two nights at Camp 3 and reached the summit with Ben Fender with no one else on the mountain.
Classic climb from C3 6870m.
Cloudy weather, not too windy, not too cold.
We were only six french people to summit this day.
Many thanks to Denis POUSSIN our guide and odyssee-montagne.fr
reached 7400, very bad weather, zero visibility, non technical mountain, most importand is good weather so time reserve and patiance is a clue. (mobile phone signal in camp3! even better then in b.c.)
I was in August 2008 with a spanish expedition in the original route. Only 2 of 23 members did summit. Bad weather
Got to 7,100 m but turned back due to zero visibility.
Climbed the mountain on my own (using local base camp service) in Alpine Style (moving camp). Acclimatized one week on the way from Islamabad in the Nanga Parbat Area which limited my time at Mustag Ata to 2 weeks, which was the right decision (no boredom at all during my stay). Weather is always an issue so make sure to get proper information from abroad (mobile phone access in basecamp)- local weather forecasts are non-existent .
Very beautiful and accessible mountain. Was in 2002 part of an international expedition, only one out of twelve made it to the summit. My adventure ended sadly at approx. 5900 m by different reasons. It was a great experience and the cycling up the Karakorum Highway was a real adventure in itself! :)
Will have my revenge this year.
Keep the mountain clean!
This year the weather was very unstable and we also had some snow in the mornings at BC. We got a four day slot of good weather for our attempt and we did it on 26th of July. Going down with skis was not so much fun as I thought... Thanks to Christian, Daniel and Martin who went with me !
This was the highest summit I have ever climbed, although by far not the most difficult one.