Nanny Goat, Deception- 5.7/5.8, 7 Pitches

Page Type
Alberta, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day

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Nanny Goat, Deception- 5.7/5.8, 7 Pitches
Created On: Nov 2, 2014
Last Edited On: Aug 15, 2016

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This Topo will give you a rough idea of where the stations are located, how long the pitches are, and how many bolts on every pitch. The route was lately bolted (thank you) and it does not have the long slab run-outs as it used to have. With sparse bolts on some of the pitches, the route shouldn't be considered as a sport climbing route. The route starts at the bottom of a shattered buttress on Nanny Goat.
The climb's original rating was 5.7 (first ascend by T. Jones & C. Perry in 1975) but did not include the alternate two pitches from ramp to the top. The second of the alternate pitches (Pitch 10) sports couple of 5.8 moves. Pitches 4, 5, 6, and 7 are very short and can be combined together to speed up the climb.

Getting There

To get there, follow the regular descent route from all Kidd Goat climbs, for about 20 minutes.  About 50 meters below Kidd/Nanny Goad gully, a faint trail marked with a cairn and a flag branches to the right. Follow this trail across Nanny Goat's scree slope for about 15 minutes. The trail ends in a a bay with lots of dead trees. The start of the climb is marked with 2 bolts located on a slab, just below Nanny Goat's shattered buttress.

To descend, follow a faint trail that parallels Nanny Goat's cliffs down towards Nanny/Kid Goat col and then join the regular descent route from Kid Goat. 

Route Description

Pitch 1, 35 meters, 5.6, 3 bolts.

Start at the bottom of the slab with 2 bolts.  Climb up and left across the slab, passing a bolt to a break in a rib. After gaining the rib through the break, follow it passing 2 bolts to a big block on the right. The first 2 bolt station is located below the block on the left.  

Pitch 2, 20 meters, 5.6, 2 bolts.

If you look up and to the right from the first station,  you will see a crack with a bolt. Follow this crack all the way up to a ledge with 2 bolts station. There are 2 bolts on this pitch. The second bolt is somewhat to the left and very easy to miss if the crack is not followed. There is also a stuck nut below first bolt.

Pitch 3, 25-30 meters, 5.6+, 7 bolts.

Follow the line of bolts up and to the right, then traverse left to a break in a long rib. There is a station with 2 bolts right after you pass the rib's break . This is the most interesting pitch of the original climb.

Pitch 4, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts.

Move up and left over ledge to a short wall. Climb this wall passing 2 bolts, to a station with 2 bolts below large overhang.

Pitch 5, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts.

Follow the main slabby, left slanting ledge, passing 2 bolts to a station with 2 bolts.

Pitch 6, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts and 1 piton.

Continue to climb up and left passing a short slabby step to a station with 2 bolts. The station is located just below long rib on the left.

Pitch 7, 15-20 meters, 5.6, 2 bolts and a piton.

From this station, down-climb about 1 meter to the start of the rib. If you look through the break in the rib, you will see a ledge and a bolt about 2 meters behind the rib. Follow the ledge left and then at the bolt start climbing up, passing yet another bolt and a piton to a station with 2 bolts.

Pitch 8, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts and a piton.

Climb up the slab, passing 2 bolts and a piton to a wide ramp going up and to the right. There is lots of lose rock here, so watch not knock down the rock on your partner and/or people climbing Great White Hope below. A 2 bolt station is located on the other side of the ramp.

Pitch 9, 50 meters, low 5, gear (original finish).

Follow 1 of the 2 breaks up and left to the top of the buttress. There is also an interim 2 bolt station about 5 meters below the top of the buttress. This is the original finish. 

Alternate Pitch 9, 25 meters, 5.5, 3 bolts.
From pitch 8, follow the ramp up and to the right for about 20 meters to a two bolt station. Climb low angled slab up to a two bolt station.

Alternate Pitch 10, 30 meters, 5.8, 6 bolts.
This is the nicest pitch of the whole climb. There are possibly two 5.8 and one 5.7 moves half way up the pitch. Move up and right to a right facing corner. Follow the corner for couple of moves and move back left. Climb a slabby wall with a finger crack on the right up to an even steeper wall. Climb the steep wall with difficulty for couple of moves (easier on the left) and mount a ledge with final 2 bolt station.

Essential Gear

At least 5 quick draws, some long slings, 2
small and 2 medium cams.

External Links

Nanny Goat, Deception- 5.7/5.8, 7 Pitches

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