Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 28.35316°N / 104.18345°W |
Route Type: | Trad Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
Time Required: | Half a day |
Difficulty: | 5.7/5.8 |
Grade: | I |
To get there, follow the regular descent route from all Kidd Goat climbs, for about 20 minutes. About 50 meters below Kidd/Nanny Goad gully, a faint trail marked with a cairn and a flag branches to the right. Follow this trail across Nanny Goat's scree slope for about 15 minutes. The trail ends in a a bay with lots of dead trees. The start of the climb is marked with 2 bolts located on a slab, just below Nanny Goat's shattered buttress.
To descend, follow a faint trail that parallels Nanny Goat's cliffs down towards Nanny/Kid Goat col and then join the regular descent route from Kid Goat.
Pitch 1, 35 meters, 5.6, 3 bolts.
Start at the bottom of the slab with 2 bolts. Climb up and left across the slab, passing a bolt to a break in a rib. After gaining the rib through the break, follow it passing 2 bolts to a big block on the right. The first 2 bolt station is located below the block on the left.
Pitch 2, 20 meters, 5.6, 2 bolts.
If you look up and to the right from the first station, you will see a crack with a bolt. Follow this crack all the way up to a ledge with 2 bolts station. There are 2 bolts on this pitch. The second bolt is somewhat to the left and very easy to miss if the crack is not followed. There is also a stuck nut below first bolt.
Pitch 3, 25-30 meters, 5.6+, 7 bolts.
Follow the line of bolts up and to the right, then traverse left to a break in a long rib. There is a station with 2 bolts right after you pass the rib's break . This is the most interesting pitch of the original climb.
Pitch 4, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts.
Move up and left over ledge to a short wall. Climb this wall passing 2 bolts, to a station with 2 bolts below large overhang.
Pitch 5, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts.
Follow the main slabby, left slanting ledge, passing 2 bolts to a station with 2 bolts.
Pitch 6, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts and 1 piton.
Continue to climb up and left passing a short slabby step to a station with 2 bolts. The station is located just below long rib on the left.
Pitch 7, 15-20 meters, 5.6, 2 bolts and a piton.
From this station, down-climb about 1 meter to the start of the rib. If you look through the break in the rib, you will see a ledge and a bolt about 2 meters behind the rib. Follow the ledge left and then at the bolt start climbing up, passing yet another bolt and a piton to a station with 2 bolts.
Pitch 8, 15-20 meters, 5.5, 2 bolts and a piton.
Climb up the slab, passing 2 bolts and a piton to a wide ramp going up and to the right. There is lots of lose rock here, so watch not knock down the rock on your partner and/or people climbing Great White Hope below. A 2 bolt station is located on the other side of the ramp.
Pitch 9, 50 meters, low 5, gear (original finish).
Follow 1 of the 2 breaks up and left to the top of the buttress. There is also an interim 2 bolt station about 5 meters below the top of the buttress. This is the original finish.