nightmares and daydreams

Page Type
Route
Location:
Cordillera Blanca/Chinchey Massif, Peru, South America
Route Type:
snow and ice
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
d+, td-

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Created On: Sep 12, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 12, 2004

Approach


approach on isinca-bc trail. 0.5h before bc (or 3h from pashpa) hike up valley on right side, waterfall visible high up. hike up 1.5h to first swamp, than morain to the left (waterfall) to reach campground (4900m), 1h.
hike up morain to the left of small river and some lakes to reach base of n-ridge, 3h. scrambel up and right to gain flat glaciar basin. traverse right to base of face,1h

Route Description


an obvious ice ridge comes down from summit. cross schrund on obvious bridge to gain slope right of ice ridge. climb snow slop of 45-55 degree,100m. then follow icy runnel for 250m to summit cornice (55-65 degree). climb this on snow and rotten ice right of summit, 30m (up to 90 degree, some digging...).
rappel route on v-threads and pickets

Essential Gear


5 screws, 2 pikets

Miscellaneous Info


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nightmares and daydreams

Route
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Geography

Routes in Peru

Parents

OcshapalcaRoutes