Normal route

Page Type
Belluno, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Normal route
Created On: Aug 21, 2007
Last Edited On: Aug 21, 2007


South faceOn the big ledge

First of all I must say that there are actually two normal routes, and it's not easy to say which one is the variant of the other, because the difficulty is more or less the same. I'll describe here the one I think is slightly easier then the other.
Another thing that it's not easy to say it's if this is a difficult hike or an easy climbing route. Probably it's something between the two, although the only passage that can be called "alpinistic" ( UIAA II+ ) is the climb of the third summit ( east ) that can be avoided. If you climb only the other two summits you will not find difficulties above the UIAA I+/ II- degree.
This route follows the huge southern ledge on the south side of west summit and it's marked only with stones, so there can be some problems of orientation, especially in case of fog.


Just after Sella Ciampigotto ( coming from east ) park your car and follow the narrow road on your right ( indications for the path 332 to Forcella di Valgrande ) that goes up towards north. After a while you'll reach a first notch ( Forcella Losco 1778 m ) and then a second one ( Forcella di Camporosso 1913 m, 30 minutes ). This is a place of rare beauty in the middle of alpine pastures ( you'll probably meet a lot of grey and white-brown cows ) with great dolomitic walls and towers in the background and the huge perfect pyramid of Monte Antelao that dominates all the valley on your left. Once reached the second notch don't follow the indications for the path on the right to Forcella di Valgrande but take the path that goes up on the left which is not marked. Go up until you reach the base of the big ravine between the west summit and Cresta Castellati ( 2220 m,1 hour). Here you'll see a big rock and on the right a path that goes up to the big ledge on the southern side of the west summit. Follow the stones until you reach the southern edge ( here the view opens to the other two summits and to eastern ridge of the southern Carnic Alps ) and then go up on the left. After a couple of fun easy climbing passages you'll be on the big crest of the mountain and in a few minutes you'll reach the top of Cima Ovest, where you'll enjoy a magnificent 360° panorama ( 2547 m, 1 hour and 20 minutes ). Then go down on the right side of the ridge until you reach the small notch between Cima Ovest and Cima di Mezzo. From here you follow the ledge on the left side of the mountain and after a short tricky passage you'll be first on the crest and then on top of the main summit ( 2548 m, 20 minutes ). If you want to reach also Cima Est you have to go down to the ledge and turn right, where you'll find the most difficult passage of the route. After that an easy scramble will take you directly on the east summit ( 2540 m, 20 minutes ). For the descent you can use the same path of the ascent or reach the west summit and go down trough the dihedral. ( 5 hours 30 minutes total ).
Monte Cornon and Crode di MezzodìBetween Cima Ovest and Cima di Mezzo

Essential gear

Good shoes and an helmet.

External Links

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Normal route

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