Normal route

Overview

This is a very interesting route that requires some alpinistic experience because there are several sections to climb. The average difficulty is not high ( UIAA I/II ) but the “key” passage trough two chimneys ( UIAA II+ ) is quite demanding and can be a serious obstacle for people without climbing experience, especially going down.
It must be added that this place is very wild and solitary, and that the quality of this dolomitic rock it’s not good.
It can be climbed sometimes even in early spring and late fall, but in this case you have to bring with you full winter equipment because there could be snow and ice in the ravines that can’t be seen from the bottom of the valley.
The route follows the most logical line on the southern side of the mountain, which is furrowed by deep ravines. It is very long and strenuous but extremely rewarding ,and can satisfy even experienced alpinists. It is well marked with red dots.
The panorama from the summit is exceptionally broad and beautiful, one of the best of the Carnic Alps. Time required: 7 hours

Approach

The route starts from Passo Siera, on the southern slopes of the mountain. You have two options to reach the Pass:

From Sappada:

From Muhlbach go towards the river Piave following the indications for the path n°316 and Passo Siera ( or from the ski-lifts of Cima Sappada take the path n° 318 ). After the first part in the woods the path ( partly secured ) starts to go up on the western slopes of Monte Siera, on the edge of the deep gorge of the river Rio Siera di Sappada. The view slowly opens first to the Rinaldo-Lastroni group and the Dolomiti di Sesto and then to the Clap and Terze groups. At the crossroad take the path on the left ( the one of the right goes to Passo dell’Arco and the Damiana bivouac or to Forca Alta di Culzei ) that will take you to the springs of Rio Siera and then to the green Pass. 1 hour and 30 minutes.

From Rifugio de Gasperi:

From the hut ( you can reach it in an hour or so from Pian di casa – Val Pesarina ) follow the indications for “Sentiero attrezzato Corbellini” and Passo Siera. It is a wonderful partly secured route ( much frequented In the summer months ) that follow exposed ledges on the wild steep ravines of the southern side of the Clap group. 2 hours.

Route Description

From Passo Siera follow the path that goes towards north to Casera Siera. Behind the hut follow the path that crosses the creek and starts to go up steep through dwarf pines. At around 1800 m you’ll enter in the huge detritic cirque between Siera and Piccolo Siera (neglect the indications for the path on the left that goes to the south-western gully ). Follow the cairns until the path turns left just below a big roof. In the first part of the gully you’ll find the most difficult passages of the route. There are some fun sections to climb ( you will find also an old rope and some pitons on the way in the most exposed passages ) on the steep gorge that becomes narrower and narrower until you’ll reach the first chimney of about 15 meters. A second chimney of about 6/8 meters follows. This two passages require all your concentration because although the technical difficulty is not very high ( for an alpinist ) you have to consider the bad quality of the rock.
The path leaves the first gully and heads towards grassy slopes that will take you to a small notch where the view opens to the sharp crests of Siera and Piccolo Siera. Following a series of wild ravines ( a couple of tricky passages in the last part ) you’ll reach the small notch on the south-east crest where the view opens for the first time to the Carnic main chain. From the notch the path on the left will take you in few minutes on the summit.
For the descent follow the same path of the ascent.

Essential Gear

An helmet and a good pair of trekking shoes. For people without climbing experience a rope and equipment for rappeling.

Images

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