On the way to Passo Oberenghe
This is one of those routes that have the “taste” of an alpinistic route but can be climbed even by expert hikers. It starts from Passo Oberenghe ( 2081 m ) on the southern slopes of the mountain and goes up first trough very steep grassy slopes and then on the south south-east face of the mountain, which is carved by a characteristic gully. There are some passages of about UIAA I/I+, but never exposed or too difficult. The most difficult section is a narrow ravine just before the south-west summit. It’s advisable only to expert and well fit hikers, because is a very long and tiring route, especially if you choose the approach from Sappada. Once on the south-west summit if you have some alpinistic experience you can follow the red dots and climb the other ( north-east ) summit as well ( very exposed, 20 meters of UIAA II to climb ).The best season to climb this mountain is the summer, but it can be climbed sometimes even in late november or in early April. Time required 7/9 hours.
There are three possible approaches to reach Passo Oberenghe
, where the route starts:
From Val Pesarina
Creta di Mimoias
From Pian di Casa
( Bar Ristorante Centro Fondo - small bridge ) take the path 201/202 to Rifugio De Gasperi
and Casera Mimoias
. After 15 minutes at the first crossroad ( indications ) take the path on the left that goes up to Casera Mimoias
Campanile di Mimoias
From the hut take the road that goes down and then turn right following the indications for Passo Mimoias
and Passo Enghe
. All the way fantastic views to the towers of Cresta di Enghe, to the vertical north walls of Crete di Mimoias and to the charming Campanile di Mimoias. Once reached Passo di Mimoias follow the same path 202 to Passo Oberenghe
. The view slowly opens to the Brentoni group, to the Dolomites and to the Huge south face of Terza Grande.
From Forcella Lavardèt ( Val Frison )
You can reach this notch by car following the indications from Val Pesarina
. From there you have to walk for about 2 kms on the road to the beginning of the path n° 314 ( reachable also by off-road cars ).
There's also a road ( closed to vehicles ) that goes up to Casera Mimoias and meets the path n°202, but it's a long and boring route, not advisable.
Cresta di Enghe
take the road behind the church that crosses the river Piave
and then starts to go up in the forest. At the crossroad take the path on the right that goes up to the Pass through the very wild Vallone di Enghe
. Great views to the Clap group, Cresta di Enghe, the massive east face of Terza Grande and to the Carnic main chain.
On the base of the south face
Once arrived at Passo Oberenghe take path that goes first down towards north and then starts to go up on a very steep grassy slope, until you reach the base of the huge south face of the mountain. Follow the cairns that will take you inside the big gully that divides in two the south-west summit.
This part is really beautiful: there are some fun easy passages of UIAA I and the view slowly opens to Sappada and its wonderful mountains. At the end of the gully there’s a slightly more demanding passage ( UIAA I+ ) that will take you on the final crest and then on the south-west summit ( 2586 m , cross and summit book ). As explained in the main page this is the main summit but it’s not the highest one, so if you want to say : “I climbed Terza Grande” you shouldn’t stop and climb the north-east summit as well ( but almost everybody stop on the south-west summit ).
On the south-west summit
Go down on the eastern crest ( 20 m of UIAA I+, exposed )following the red dots that will take you on the small notch between the two summits. From there you have to climb the most difficult passage of the route, a small face of about 15 m ( UIAA II/II+ , very exposed ) . After that in a few minutes ( and another easy passage of UIAA I ) you’ll be on the north-west summit.
For the descent follow the same path of the ascent.
A good pair of trekking shoes