midi510 - Oct 15, 2019 10:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1982
Cut My Teeth on This One
I've climbed this about five times. The first being in the early eighties. I'm not sure about the date. I'm thinking September or October. I'd done small chutes and gullies up to this point, but this was my first proper snow and ice couloir. I summited probably three times by this route, climbing the SW face above the col. I've done the East Ridge, too. Once, I took my cousin up and we used a rope and once I took Talsky up and we solo'd. The other times I was alone and solo'd. One time I started descending the East Ridge and was going to drop back onto the glacier, but got impatient and downclimbed the north face. It was a but scary in places.
Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:44 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
Easy in May
Descended this route coming back from the East Arete. Not as steep as it is reported to be, and of course early season friendly snow certainly made it more accomodating.
asmrz - Jul 2, 2011 7:01 pm Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2002
Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002
Climbed the North Couloir with the Direct finish on October 19, 2002. Started the climb at 8,200' by our truck. Michael Gordon was with me but felt sick at McGee Lake and turned around. I soloed the gully, which was rock hard water ice. I thought it was steeper than 60 degrees. I guess the more technical it became, the steeper it felt (in my mind). I did not want to go to the top (have been there before), so I tried to go down via the NW Ridge. At the top of the gully, I could not find the connection to the top of the NW Ridge. From the notch, there was about 100 feet of fifth class climbing up and right. When I got to the top of what I thought to be NW Ridge, all I saw were steeply droping ridges. I could not find the top of the ridge. Anyone knows how to connect this? I downclimbed to the West and had to walk back over couple of cols and about three miles to the talus above Mc Gee Lake. I had to bivi in the talus as I just ran out of daylight. Reached Michael and the truck at 10:00am. This is really good outing, someone stronger could easily make it RT in a day from the Trail Head.
Re: Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002
I've always called this the NE Couloir, since it faces NE. I've climbed it many times since the early eighties and think I'll do it again this Saturday. Sometimes I go to the summit and sometimes not. But other than once descending the East Ridge and dropping onto the glacier and once downclimbing the north face, I've always descended the gully just to the west of the couloir. Third class with some second class in there, too. It always seemed to be pretty easy to get over there.
Re: Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002
Thanks for the note on the proper descent. Somebody reading this and going up the Couloir for the first time might benefit from your info.
Cheers, Alois.
midi510 - Oct 15, 2019 10:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1982
Cut My Teeth on This OneI've climbed this about five times. The first being in the early eighties. I'm not sure about the date. I'm thinking September or October. I'd done small chutes and gullies up to this point, but this was my first proper snow and ice couloir. I summited probably three times by this route, climbing the SW face above the col. I've done the East Ridge, too. Once, I took my cousin up and we used a rope and once I took Talsky up and we solo'd. The other times I was alone and solo'd. One time I started descending the East Ridge and was going to drop back onto the glacier, but got impatient and downclimbed the north face. It was a but scary in places.
Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:44 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
Easy in MayDescended this route coming back from the East Arete. Not as steep as it is reported to be, and of course early season friendly snow certainly made it more accomodating.
asmrz - Jul 2, 2011 7:01 pm Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2002
Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002Climbed the North Couloir with the Direct finish on October 19, 2002. Started the climb at 8,200' by our truck. Michael Gordon was with me but felt sick at McGee Lake and turned around. I soloed the gully, which was rock hard water ice. I thought it was steeper than 60 degrees. I guess the more technical it became, the steeper it felt (in my mind). I did not want to go to the top (have been there before), so I tried to go down via the NW Ridge. At the top of the gully, I could not find the connection to the top of the NW Ridge. From the notch, there was about 100 feet of fifth class climbing up and right. When I got to the top of what I thought to be NW Ridge, all I saw were steeply droping ridges. I could not find the top of the ridge. Anyone knows how to connect this? I downclimbed to the West and had to walk back over couple of cols and about three miles to the talus above Mc Gee Lake. I had to bivi in the talus as I just ran out of daylight. Reached Michael and the truck at 10:00am. This is really good outing, someone stronger could easily make it RT in a day from the Trail Head.
midi510 - Oct 15, 2019 11:05 pm
Re: Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002I've always called this the NE Couloir, since it faces NE. I've climbed it many times since the early eighties and think I'll do it again this Saturday. Sometimes I go to the summit and sometimes not. But other than once descending the East Ridge and dropping onto the glacier and once downclimbing the north face, I've always descended the gully just to the west of the couloir. Third class with some second class in there, too. It always seemed to be pretty easy to get over there.
asmrz - Oct 18, 2019 9:21 am
Re: Route Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002Thanks for the note on the proper descent. Somebody reading this and going up the Couloir for the first time might benefit from your info.
Cheers, Alois.
granjero - Sep 13, 2009 2:32 pm
great lineDreamt about this line since I was a bouldering lad confined to the buttermilks. My first big eastside snowboard descent, spectacular conditions!
WML - Jul 30, 2009 2:08 am Date Climbed: May 16, 2009
funnn!!!!!Great route, steeper than stated.