North Face

Page Type
Route
Location:
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 7 Votes

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Page By:
North Face
Created On: Apr 2, 2003
Last Edited On: Apr 29, 2009

Overview

Lexington Tower from the westN Face on L

Lexington Tower, North FaceOn the N Face




The North Face of Lexington Tower is a pleasant two-pitch climb to the notch between the two summits. The crux is an awkward 5.7 move onto a ledge near the bottom of the climb. After that the climbing is very enjoyable 5.4 to 5.6.

Tim Kelley and Dick McGowan made the first ascent of Lexington Tower by this route on 5 July 1954.

Approach

The approach to Blue Lake PeakHairpin approach and view from east

WDT Aerial Photo WA PassEastern side / aerial winter view


Lexington Tower is approached from the vicinity of Washington Pass on State Highway 20. The approach from the west starts at the Blue Lake Trailhead just west of the pass. Climbs on the east side are approached from the hairpin curve or several smaller parking spots just east of the pass.

The easiest approach to the west side of the spire is from the Blue Lake Trailhead via the Blue Lake Trail to the climber's trail into the basin on the west side the Liberty Bell Group. From the Blue Lake Trailhead, follow the main trail about one and a half miles to the well-worn climber's trail and climb it into the basin. From there, scramble to the base of the tower.

From the basinWest side approach.
Lexinton on R


It is also possible to reach west side from the hairpin curve to the east of Washington Pass. Climb to the top of the basin to the south of the Early Winters Spires, then traverse high along the base of the rock on the west. This approach is best done when the basin is still snow filled (taking care regarding avalanches).

Washington Department of Transportation web site with information and updates on the spring opening of Washington Pass:

Washington Pass Information

Route Description

Lexington Tower, North FaceApproximate line of the route

The route starts slightly west and below the high point in the Concord - Lexington notch. From here follow an obvious crack system rising to the climber's right to a sloping ledge with a fixed piton. Getting onto this ledge is the crux - about 5.7. From there shallow chimneys lead up to a large ledge and belay stance. The second pitch goes leftward into the notch.

The true summit is to the east (climber's left) of the notch and can be climbed directly from the notch. The west summit is most easily reached by traversing around it to the south and climbing the west side.

Descent is via two rappels down the face. One rope is sufficient.
Lexington Tower - West SummitJust below west summit

Lexington Tower, summitSummit







Essential Gear

A normal rack and single 50 m. rope.
Concord and Lexington Towers,...