A lot more enjoyable than its sister to the south. I think I'll return to attempt the traverse.
This was my second time climbing North Maroon. Some weather came in which drove away thoughts of doing the traverse. We used our rope to rapel a chimney on the way down. That same spot was no problem when it was dry on the way up.
This was my first time climbing North Maroon. The top few hundred feet were covered with snow, which made it easier.
From camp at Crater Lake, climbed the South Ridge of South Maroon Peak, performed the traverse to North Maroon Peak, then descended North Maroon's Northeast Ridge back to camp with my friend Keith. Descending North Maroon wasn't too bad except for one gnarly section of down climbing. We stood above that section for a while thinking, "that can't be the way".
I climbed both Bells in a day, doing South Maroon first. The route finding wasn't too hard, and we left the rope in the pack all day.
Found North Maroon and the traverse to be relatively easy. I rappelled once, not out of necessity, but more because I'd have hated to carry a rope and not use it. Surprisingly, descending South Maroon was the hard part. I must've been off route. There were cairns around me, but the grass was so steep and slick I felt like I needed a "grass axe" to stop myself if I fell.
We did this a few years ago and had a great perfect day. Both of my buddies bagged out before the top. But I climbed with a couple other guys. I have to admit I was pretty scared as the mountain kept getting harder and steeper. But it was well worth it!! We avoided the chimney crux by skirting to the right on the scree field and doing some class 4 ledges. We made it off the mountain before the afternoon rain hit.
we did both the bells on the normal route. My buddy B-fro got sick within a matter of minutes on our way down... he was looking really bad and said that he wouldnt go any further. So we snuggled up under some brush and low lying trees and spent the night right there. felt fine in the morning.
With Andy. Quite fun.
There's gravel everywhere along the route, but the climbing rock itself wasn't bad at all. We stayed damn-near true to the crest along the entire traverse, car-to-car'ing the route in 9.5 hours. Solo'd everything.
Oh yeah, route-finding our way off of North Maroon wasn't nearly as bad as we were led to believe. There's an obvious trail for 90% of it.
Talked to a couple of guys who'd done the traverse the day before. Took them 15.5 hours in what they described as perfect weather. Not sure how that's possible.
I located the secret 4th class option on the traverse - took 80 minutes w/ very considered route-finding, but way less exposed than the standard crux. Barely beat a storm off N. Maroon - it began to lightly rain as I was downclimbing the crux. I couldn't figure out which slot was the "dihedral", so I downclimbed some easy 5th class arete in the center of the cliff band.
Took 90 minutes for the traverse. Didn't take a rope. Great weather too- a necessity here. Climbed with Dave and Steve Donaldson.
Climbed via the traverse. Very busy on the summit--at one point there were about 20 people up there!
Awesome day! Great climb!
Did south to north traverse. Epic day. Took rope but never used it. Sketchiest part was the downclimb into the notch, otherwise not too bad. Could easily be made more dicey by forcing another line.
I can't believe I hadn't already signed this summit log! I loved this mountain. We had attempted it in Sept of 2005 and had to turn back due to snow and ice. This time we climbed the mountain - we climbed in the fog. My only regret is that we had no view from the top but the climbing was great fun! This might be one of my favorite 14ers!
A pretty dam direct route to the summit. Some nightmarish route-finding at times but was with good friends all day. Unexpectingly, I enjoyed this mountain. Everything was wet or muddy from the deluge/downpour from the previous night. The first crux cliff wasn't as bad as I was expecting.
Climbed with my friend Mike B. Due to the routes name, we expected to be on the ridge top proper most of the way; Instead the route ascends two long gullies. Still an incredible scramble!
Did the "real" traverse, following the ridgeline almost the entire way across. A few class 4 sections, 1 5-easy(as Andy dubs it) section. Rock was pretty good along the ridge, better than the ledges on the sides. Descended the standard route(NE ridge), nice views but loose and crappy. Two in our party roped up for a few spots, I didn't find it necessary if you are comfortable with C4.
Did the traverse, which is fairly exposed and totally awesome. Route finding is pretty easy and rock is much better than most describe!
Last day of non-snowy season. After departing N for S peak blizzard conditions followed me. 9 hours car to car. 18 hours Leadville to Leadville including 6 in South Canyon Hot Springs. I love Colorado.